Imatges de pÓgina
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'At five o'clock Emilie came, accompanied by Josephine. She was dressed in a pelisse of merino, richly lined with fur, which she was accustomed to put on over her light dress on leaving a ball room, She had taken in her reticule a black silk petticoat. This is quite sufficient,' she said, *to disguise you completely.' She then sent my daughter to the window, and added in a low voice, At seven o'clock precisely you must be ready; all is well prepared. In going out you will take hold of Josephine's arm. Take care to walk very slowly; and when you cross in the large registering room, you will put on my gloves and cover your face with my handkerchief. I had some thoughts of putting on a veil, but unfortunately I have not been accustomed to wear one when I come here; it is therefore no use to think of it. Take great care, when you pass under the doors, which are very low, not to break the feathers of your bonnet, for then all would be lost. I always find the turnkeys in the registering-room, and the jailor generally hands me to my chair, which constantly stands near the entrance door; but this time it will be in the yard, at the top of the grand staircase. There you will be met after a short time by M. Baudus, who will lead you to the cabriolet, and will acquaint you with the place where you are to remain concealed. Afterwards, let God's will be done, my dear. Do exactly all I tell you. But above all things,' she added, 'let us not give way to our feelings, that would be our ruin.' 'She then called my daughter, and said to her, ‘I shall go away this evening at seven o'clock instead of eight; you must walk behind me, because you know that the doors are narrow; but when we enter the long registering room, take care to place yourself on my left hand.

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When we are out of the iron gate, and ready to go up the outside staircase, then pass to my right hand, that those impertinent gendarmes of the guard-house may not stare in my face as they always do. Have you understood me well? The child repeated the instructions with wonderful exact

ness.

The valet-de-chambre came in; she took him aside. whispered a few words to him, and added aloud, 'Take care that the chairmen be at their posts, for I am coming. --Now,' said she to me, it is time to dress.'

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A part of my room was divided off by a screen, and formed a sort of dressing-closet. We stepped behind the screen, and in less than three minutes my toilet was complete. We went back to the room, and Emilie said to her daughter, 'What do you think of your father?' A smile of surprise and incredulity escaped the poor girl. I am serious my dear, what do you think of him?' He looks very well,' she answered; and her her head fell again oppressed on her bosom. We all advanced in silence towards the door. I said to Emilie, 'The jailer comes in every evening after you are gone. Place yourself behind the screen, and make a little noise. He will think it is I, and will go out again. By that means I shall gain a few minutes, which are necessary for me to get away.'' Adieu!' she said, raising her eyes to heaven. I pressed her arm with my trembling hand, and we exchanged a look. The turnkey was heard, Emilie flew behind the screen; the door opened-I passed first, then my daughter, and lastly Madame Dutoit.

After having crossed the passage, I arrived at the door of the registering room. I was obliged, at the same time to raise my foot and to stoop lest the feathers of my bonnet should catch at the top of the door. I succeeded; but, on raising myself again, I found myself in the large appart

ment, in the presence of five turnkeys, sitting, standing, and coming in my way. I put my handkerchief to my face, and was waiting for my daughter to place herself on my left hand; the child, however, took my right hand, and the jailor coming down the stairs of his apartment, which was on the left hand, came up to me without hindrance, and, putting his hand on my arm, said to me, 'You are going away early, madame.' He appeared much affected, and undoubtedly thought my wife had taken an everlasting leave of her husband. I at last reached the end of the room. A turnkey sits there day and night; this man looked at me without opening his doors. I passed my right hand between the bars, to shew him I wished to go out. He turned, at last, his two keys, and we got out. We had a few steps to ascend to come to the yard; but, at the bottom of the staircase there is a guard-house of Gendearms. About twenty soldiers, headed by their officer, had placed themselves a few paces from me, to see Madame de Lavallette pass.、

At last, I slowly reached the last step, and went into the chair that stood a yard or two distant. But no chairman, no servant was there. My daughter and the old woman remained standing next to the vehicle, with a sentry at six paces from them, immoveable, and his eyes fixed on me. A violent degree of agitation began to mingle with my astonishment. My looks were directed towards the sentry's musket, like those of a serpent towards its prey. It almost seemed to me that I held that musket in my grasp. At the first motion, at the first noise, I was resolved to seize it. I felt as if I possessed the strength of ten men; and I would most certainly have killed whoever had attempted to lay hands on me. This terrible situation lasted about two minutes; but they seemed to me as long as a whole night. At last I heard Bonneville's voice saying to me, 'One of the chairman was not punctual, but I have found another.' At the same instant I felt myself raised. The chair passed through the great court, and on getting out, turned to the right. We proceeded to the Quai des Orfevres, facing the Rue de Harlay. There the chair stopped; and my friend Baudus, offering me his arm, said aloud, 'You know, Madam, you have a visit to pay to the President.' I got out, and he pointed to a cabriolet that stood at some distance in that dark street. I jumped into it, and the driver said to me, 'Give me my whip.' I looked for it in vain; he had dropped it. 'Never mind,' said my companion. A motion of the reins made the horse start off in a quick trot. In passing by I saw Josephine on the Quai, her hands clasped, and fervently offering up prayers to God. We crossed the Pont St. Michel, the Rue de la Harpe, and we soon reached the Rue de Vaugirard, behind the Odeon theatre. It was not till then that I breathed at ease. In looking at the driver of the cabriolet, how great was my astonishment to recognise Count Chassenon, whom I was very far from expecting to find there. 'What!' I said, 'is it you?' 'Yes, and you have behind you four double-barrelled pistols, well loaded; I hope you will make use of them.' 'No, indeed, I will not compromise you.' 'Then I shall set you the example, and woe to whoever shall attempt to stop your flight.'

MARRIAGE.

"But happy they-the happiest of their kindWhom gentler stars unite, and in one fate

Their hearts, their fortunes, and their beings blend." THOMPSON.

That the poet is right, there can be no doubt. The matrimonial state, when entered into at the proper time and between suitable parties, is certainly conducive to health and happiness. It is a state for which man is formed, and in entering into which, therefore, he obeys the Organic and moral laws-disobedience to which, as I have shewn, must inevitably be attended with evil of some kind or other.

This opinion, however, is not based on general principles alone, but is supported by statistical researches, the results of which were published a short time ago by Dr. Casper of Berlin, who informs us that Odier, who first set on foot exact enquiries respecting the influence of marriage on longevity, found that, in the case of females, the mean duration of life for the married woman of 25 was above 36 years; while for the unmarried it was about 30%. At 30 there was a difference of four years in favour of the married; and at 33 two years, and so on. With regard to men, we gather from Deparcieux's and the Amsterdam tables, that the mortality of those from 30 to 45 years, is 27 per cent. for the unmarried, while it is but 18 for the married; and that for 41 bachelors who attain the age of 40, there are 78 married men. The difference becomes still more striking as life advances. At the age of 60 there are but 22 unmarried men alive for 48 married; at 70, 11 bachelors for 27 married men; and at 80, for the three bachelors who may chance to be alive, there are nine Benedicts. The same proportion very nearly holds good with respect to the female sex: 72 married women, for example, attain the age of 45, while only 52 unmarried reach the same term of life. M. Casper in conclusion, considers the point as now incontestibly settled, that in both sexes marriage is conducive to longevity.

That the marriage-state is favourable to mental as well as to bodily health, is strongly shewn by the fact noticed in the lecture of M. Andral, from which I have already quoted: viz. that in France two-thirds of the suicides are committed by bachelors; and he adds that the same remark has been made in this country.

But "to make marriages answer the purpose of health, and the other objects to be kept in view in the connubial state, there ought to be a parity of station, a similarity of temper, and no material disproportion in years. It is owing to the want of some of these most essential requisites, that the married state proves so often the source of misery, instead of joy and comfort."

The opinions of physiologists as to the earliest age at which the contraction of marriage in this country is advisable, are various-some fixing it for the male at the age of 21, others at 25, and others even at 23; but most writers on the subject agree in regarding the 18th year of the female as the earliest at which it ought to take place. This, however, is a point which must depend upon a great variety of circumstances; and though marriages entered into while the frame is still rapidly developing are undoubtedly injurious, yet varieties in constitution are so numerous and so

great, that it is impossible to lay down a rule universally applicable. It may, however, be considered as certain, that marriages on the part of males before the age of 21 are hurtful.

If we regard marriages as they affect the offspring, we must take into account many circumstances which do not affect the parties marrying.

It appears to be a law of nature, that frequent intermarriages among a particular family, class, or nation, have a tendency to produce mental and bodily degeneracy; and the more limited the circle to which they are confined, the greater is the degeneracy. This accounts for the fact that the children of cousins, or other near relations, are so often weak in intellect-sometimes even idiotic. It is well known that idiotcy is by no means rare in some of the royal and noble families of Spain and Portugal, among which the practice of marrying nieces and cousins prevails.

The predominant states of mind of the mother during the period of gestation seem to exercise great influence on the character, bodily and mental, of the child. If such be the case, the following advice, given by the Margravine of Anspach in her Memoirs, deserves serious attention:--"When a female is likely to become a mother, she ought to be doubly careful of her temper; and, in particular, to indulge no ideas that are not cheerful, and no sentiments that are not kind. Such is the connexion between the mind and body, that the features of the face are commonly moulded into an expression of the internal disposition; and is it not natural to think that an infant, before it is born, may be affected by the temper of its mother?"

I cannot refrain from quoting the following excellent remarks on this subject from Dr. Caldwell's Treatise on Physical Education. "The avoidance by females, while pregnant, of every thing that might injure them, cannot be too strict. Nor is this all. They should take more exercise in the open air than they usually do. The feeling which induces many of them to shut themselves up in their rooms for weeks and months before parturition, is an excess of delicacy-were the term less exceptionable, I would say false delicacy and ought not to be indulged. Their food should be wholesome, nourishing, and easy of digestion, and should be taken in quantities sufficient to give them their entire strength, and maintain all their functions in full vigour. Their minds ought to be kept in a state of tranquillity. In a particular manner, the effects of frightful appearances, alarming accidents, and agitating and impassioned tales and narratives, should be carefully guarded against by them. The blighting operation of the 'reign of terror,' in Paris, on the children born during that period, furnishes fearful evidence of the influence of the distracted and horrified condition of the mother over the system of the unborn infant. An unusual number of them was stillborn. Of those who were not so, a number equally uncommon died at an early age; and of those who attained adult life, an unusual proportion were subject to epilepsy, madness or some other form of cerebral disease."

The late Dr. Curtis, who practised as an accoucheur for upwards of fifty years, used to assert, that if females when pregnant would move about and take exercise in the open air, instead of lounging upon sofas, 99 births out of 100 would be natural, and deformities would rarely occur.Such was also the opinion of his grandfather, Mr. John Curtis, who followed the same profession.

The transmission of mental qualities may still be somewhat

open to doubt, but there is the strongest proof that physical qualities are in most cases communicated; and therefore, in the words of Dr. Caldwell, as "respects persons seriously deformed, or in any way constitutionally enfeebled,-the rickety, and club-footed, for instance, and those with distorted spines, or who are pre-disposed to insanity, scrofula, pulmonary consumption, gout or epilepsy-all persons of this description should conscientiously abstain from matrimony. In a special manner, where both the male and female labour under a hereditary taint, they should make it a part of their duty to God and their posterity never to be thus united. Marriage in such individuals cannot be defended on moral grounds-much less on that of public usefulness. It is selfish to an extent but little short of crime. Its abandonment or prevention would tend, in a high degree, to the improvement of mankind."-Curtis on the Preservation of Health.

LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS. DRESSES.-While we are in but an indifferent position to indicate the prevalence of any particularly distinguished toilette, of very recent introduction, we may perhaps appropriately urge the necessity of a strict regard to all the little accessories, which constitute so great a charm, whether the application of well chosen ornaments, or a tasteful choice of all, that, though separable from the costume, is yet not independent of it-such for instance, as the vogue of the bijouterie, the perfection of the gloves, the richness of the handkerchief, elegance of the little purse, suspended from the ceinture, all these may be made to disfigure, or add grace to the whole toilette, and it especially becomes the lady of ton, to be scrupulously regardful of these small but important matters.

A lace dress, with designs in relief, made to represent an appliqué en cœur, in front of the corsage, and a tablier in front of the skirt, assorted beautifully with a lisse crape jupon, underneath. The volan of the same, was placed high up the dress, and a torsade heading, in lilac ribbons, relieved the appearance, and gave a rich variety to it, and being caught up by ribbon nœuds at various intervals, exposed the underneath dress most advantageously. It should also have been stated, that the corsage was embellished with a blonde fall, which passing from the upper part, ter minated at the ceinture, in a point. The sleeves having at the upper part two bouffans, were terminated by a double manchette.

A point lace dress over a rose coloured slip, had a very elegant appearance; a tablier, composed of curled ribbon, round which serpentined barbes of point lace, gave an elegant finish to this beautiful costume.

A white organdi dress had the corsage ornamented with a bouillon, through which a ribbon passed, the sleeves short, also in bouillons, of a corresponding make, the tablier was composed in like manner. A crossed barred ribbon was tied round the waist, and hung down in long ends in front.

A white muslin dress, with patterns satiné of the same color, had the corsage fitting closely at the back and sides, and in oblique folds thence to the middle of the front, where a flat lace ornament was laid, edged with blond; which extended round the upper part of the dress, as a fall. Intermixed with the flounces of similar material to the dress, was a bordering of lace, which was deposited in a serpentine line. The toilette was completed by a paille de rix bonnet, which was adorned with a small sprig.

HATS, CAPS, &c.-The very prevailing style of wearing the front and crown of the bonnet in a line, permits a chaste and light style of ornamenting, in both the exterior and interior of the brim, the latter being in general extended rather low down the face, though not far in front.

The Mancini ornament is placed at the bottom of the brim, and descends to the ribbon which forms the baride under the chin.

A bonnet composed of rice straw, and taffety ribbon alternating, had three feathers assorting to the color of the bonnet, placed on the right side, and on the left a ribbon nœud to match, in addition to which a ribbon torsade embellished the underneath part of the brim.

A cap of a similar style, but with white crape instead of the former material, mixed with the straw, had ribbon cocques as ornaments, mingled with white satin ribbon.

Among the most elegant of the head dresses of recent introduction, may be cited

The Armenian, very light in its make and texture, being composed of lace, and ornamented with small purple flowers.

The Theban, in silver blond, in bold wide folds, having an ornament in bijouterie, in the centre of the front, and finished by long barbes.

The Persan, this is a truly elegant coiffure of gauze. with silver point, over which is thrown a transparent filmy veil, with border of lace, arabesque pattern, and set of further by a small feather, disposed so as to fall back behind.

The Italian straw hats, especially those worn in the country, are appropriately ornamented with lisse crape as lining, as additions to the crown, &c.

Bunches of flowers are placed very prevalently at the back part of the bonnet.

MATERIALS AND COLORS.-China crapes have been added in considerable variety to the catalogue of fashionable materials, of which we have lately given copious lists.

The principal and distinguishing fabrics which have held sway for the greater part of the season, with the exception of the admirable modifications which have been lavishly introduced, are now at present in equal repute, and will preserve their reputation till the French and our new designs and manufactures furnish us with their new creations.

The Crino-Zephir, as an excellently adapted material for the carriage, the rout, the concert, or other purpose, where there is probability of crushing or rubbing the dress, is a great favorite, and its lightness, delicacy, and semi-transparency, are no less recommendations.

White dresses still abundantly prevail, not only in batistes, muslins, &c., but in many of the richer and more substantial fabrics.

VARIETIES. Black tulle shawls, with point d'esprit border, and small patterns, have frequently a lining of silk lilac, green or straw coloured.

The tulle mantelets, lined with a similar fabric, and having a large ribbon forming a border, are favorites for negligé costume.

Shawls, such is the extensive variety of material, design, and make, of which they are the medium, are seen as appropriately added to the present style of toilettes, as at any other season. As particular examples of conformity to summer use, may be cited those remarkably fine cachmere shawls, with deep fringe, and embroidered corners or borders, which are now so successfully manufactured.

Muslin, tulle, organdi, &c. are still made up, and in great vogue.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.

PLATE I.

FIGURE 1.-EVENING DRESS.-Organdi dress. The corthe sage half high mounting, edged with narrow blond; sleeves made full to the wrist. The skirt is ample, and ornamented with a couple of flowers, over which an embroidered garland extends. A lace cannezau with embroidered fringe, is tied across the front. Hair worn plain in front, falling in ringlets behind.

FIGURE 2.-WALKING DRESS.-Gros de Tour dress; the corsage made high in the neck, but cut down in front and ornamented with three nœuds, the lower one terminating in flowing ends hanging to the flowers, which are placed high up the skirt. The sleeve has a triple row of bouffans laid in the upper part and is full thence to the wrist; the hat of crape with trimmings of the same.

FIGURE 3.-PROMENADE DRESS.-Muslin dress.-Made high in the neck and otherwise plain, both as to the upper part and the neck; Tuscan straw hat with ribbon

ornaments.

FIGURE 4.-PROMENADE DRESS.-Mousseline de laine dress; the upper part of the corsage made high and terminated by a plain piping and open in front, the skirt without ornament, with the exception of a lace trimming in a portion of the front where a tablier is indicated.

The first half figure has a volan in the upper part of the corsage of the same material, the sleeve in two bouffans at top and large in the middle, tapering downwards.

The second half figure is made in a similar manner, but double in the arrangement of the ornaments, both at the upper part of the corsage and sleeves.

The bonnets are, for the most part, of Gros de Naples and trimmed fabrics, similar to their own, or of shaded or other ribbons.

The caps are ornamented with bouquets and ribbons.
PLATE II.

FIGURE 1.--BALL DRESS.-Lace dress elegantly worked in the corsage, in the front of the sleeves of the dress, and the devans; the outside skirt, fastened in the Tunic style, affords excellent scope for the addition of au elegant style in embroidery. The upper part of the sleeves is made tight to the arm, full downwards, and graduating to the wrist; coiffure without ornament.

FIGURE 2.-PROMENADE DRESS.-Challi dress; a fall of the same material as the dress ornaments the upper part of the corsage, the skirt is laid on rather full, the sleeves full to the wrist, hat of crape with lace ornaments.

FIGURE 3.-EVENING DRESS.-Batiste dress; the front of the corsage framed in the lappel form, and gathered to the ceinture, the upper part of the sleeve laid in folds, at intervals, with a band confining the upper part, the rest of the sleeve full to the wrist. The redingote style generally prevails in this dress, and three rows of lace ornament it, as volans.-Lace capote.

FIGURE 4.-PROMENADE DRESS.-Foulard redingote; the front of the corsage ornamented with several rows of trimmings in lace, made with rosettes in the midst assists the embellishments of this toilette, and a volan of blond scolloped and placed on full, complete it.

The hat of crape is ornamented with lace.

The bonnets and hats of Gros de tour, organdi and silk, are but lightly ornamented with flowers, and a few feathers suffice alone, with a few additions made of the same materlal to complete their durations,

PLATE III.

de laine

FIGURE 1.-WALKING DRESS.-Mousseline dress; open, in front is a spencer of worked lace, and ornamented in front with a rosette; the skirt is wide; the flounce wide and ample, and parted by a narrow ribbon band. Hat in crape with curled feathers.

FIGURE 2.-MORNING RECEPTION DRESS.-Muslin dress; the corsage in slanting folds and crossing in front; an embroidered apron gives effect to the dress, and a wide flounce of the same completes the toilette.

FIGURE 3.-EVENING DRESS.-Foulard dress; the corsage has a lace fall, it is made low and pointed at the ceinture, and has two rows of flounces in the form of bouffans, placed very close to the hair; cap of muslin with small bouquet.

FIGURE 4.-WALKING DRESS.-Tulle dress; the upper part of the corsage frilled with lace, rounded at the ceinture, a zig-zag ornament to the lower part of the skirt, permits the insertion at the angles of small puffings.

The bonnet is of Gros de Naples, with raised designs and ribbon ornaments.

The first half figure is the back representation of the underneath dress.

The second half figure is in worked muslin, and of very similar make to the under one; the Capote of gros de tour.

The bonnets are in Tuscan straw, and will be particularly worthy of remark for the novelty of shape, small feathers, ribbon bows and small bouquets are the principal ornaments.

PLATE IV.

FIGURE 1.-EVENING DRESS.-Brussels lace dress; half high mounting corsage made full in front, the lower part rounded, the sleeve short in double sabots and decorated with ribbon bows; a deep flounce completes the lower part of the dress, and another similarly constructed, but narrower, is laid immediately above, one end ascending and terminating in a ribbon bow, as well as the lower part.

The head-dress is ornamented with a bouquet intermixed with the hair.

FIGURE 2-PROMENADE DRESS.-Watered Gros de Naples; the corsage made high over the shoulders, and together with the sleeves and the bottom of the dress ornamented with bias tucks, headed with narrow piping; those in the lower part of the dress will be observed to ascend slightly, and terminate in nœuds.

Crinoline bonnet with roses.

FIGURE 3.-EVENING DRESS.-Tulle dress; the sleeves reaching to the elbow ornamented with lace bouffans and sabots, a lace stomacher ornaments the front of the corsage and the nœuds of the tunic. The hair is ornamented with

a garland of roses.

Hats and bonnets in crape, crinoline and organdi, with flowers and lace ornaments as well as others of similar materials to the bonnet.

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