Imatges de pÓgina

have two small pockets adapted one on each side, with the opening concealed in the plaits of the skirt. On silk dresses, the pockets are trimmed with a ruche of the same material as the dress.

We have seen a very handsome foulard dress, with large variegated designs in bright colours; a pelerine with the point in front and on the back fastened under the ceinture; two other points fell over the shoulders. The pelerine and its collar were trimmed with black Tace about two inches wide; the ceinture was also edged with lace which fell on the skirt: a double row of lace in thick gathers figured the pockets on each side. The lower part of the sleeves were trimmed with black lace ruffles.

Sleeves are still made wide towards the shoulders. The only novelty is in the ornaments employed to make them sit close to the arm towards the lower extremity. They are drawn close by narrow bands about an inch apart, from the elbow to the wrist, or small coulisses. Some sleeves are made wide in the whole length, fastened at the wrist by a wide turned up cuff which closes on the plaits of the sleeve; this is not unlike the immense cuffs worn four years ago: the only difference is, that the cuff is open on the side, like those of a gentleman's coat. This cuff is sometimes ornamented with a trimming in thick gathers, or with lace.

APRONS. Small aprons have not yet lost their vogue, a great many are made of linen, some of silk, others of nut-coloured merino, bordered all round and at the pockets with black printed designs. To render them more elegant, they are sometimes trimmed with black lace.


A green gros de Naples apron ornamented with Greek border embroidered in black silk, trimmed with black lace, and having braces forming corsage en cœur in front and behind, appeared to us very elegant and pretty. The braces were also trimmed with black lace, and gradually widening from the waist to the shoulders and covering half the sleeve.

Young ladies wear embroidered muslin aprons, lined with rose-coloured taffeta; the more elegant ones are trimmed with a narrow lace.

BLONDS & LACES. We have seen a new sort of mantilla, surpassing in elegance and gracefulness, every thing of the kind hitherto produced. The shape, the tissue, the designs, all are due to the inventive lace maker, and offer to the eye a perfection and harmony that could not be attained by the scissors of the most These mantillas are either of black expert couturiere. or white blond, or lace, some are lined others not. The curve is perfect, and the lappels in front by the richness of their designs, do away with the necessity of any other ornament.

HATS. We have seen a few very elegant rice-straw and Leghorn hats in which the eternal close-fitting shapes had been succeeded by the round, open, graceful shape, generally so becoming to the features. We have also noticed some very handsome black blond hats, ornamented with roses, or with rose-coloured feathers. A black blond, thickly gathered, and spreading out in a fan-like shape form the brims which are lined with rose-coloured silk.

Handsome dress hats are also composed of rice-straw, with a very narrow shape, crinkled over the forehead, and turned up on each side à la Marie Stuart; a feather fastened on one side forms arch over the shape and projects on the other side,

Some very pretty hats are composed of black blond with a richly worked ground, but not lined like the preceding. The shape is supported by coulisses through which runs a narrow straw plait enveloped with rosecoloured ribbon. The shape is inclined backwards capote fashion, and is ornamented with a large rose or a bouquet; the ties and nœuds are of a pale rosecoloured gauze.

A grey crape hat, lined, bordered all round with a ruche of black tulle; the brides were also composed of black tulle forming double ruche; on the shape was a coquille or shell, composed of black blond and forming chou. The tout ensemble was perfectly soft, and very becoming to the fair lady that wore it,

Capote shaped hats composed of tulle lined with crape, have a very pretty effect; the inside of black tulle, is embroidered with black floss-silk; the lining of the interior of the shape, is a light shaded crape; that which we now describe was lined with apple-green crape. The shape was edged with a black ruche; on one side of the shape was a bouquet of green daisies.

CAPOTES. As a fantasia, it would be difficult to find any thing more becoming or more comme il faut for a demi-neglige than a capote we have seen, composed of rose-coloured satin in gathers, lined on the outside with black tulle without designs. The crown, oval, and like the shape, separated in the middle by a wide straw plait; a ruche of black tulle in front. A plain rose-coloured gauze nœud on one side.

Another of the same description, lined with lilac satin, had a half veil of black lace, and instead of ribbon, a coquille or shell composed of lace, and forming chou.

CAPS.-Caps are now made in such innumerable variety of shapes, and different disposition of trimmings and ornaments, that there is no age or features which may not be becomingly suited.

We have before mentioned those called à la Juive or Israelites, which are trimmed with a bouffant of tulle or muslin, separated by bandelettes formed by embroidered entre-deux or let in bands, this disposition gives the front part of the cap the aspect of a Moabite turban ; the bandelettes are lined with rose or other coloured ribbon, one of them is passed under the chin. This shape though neglige, is elegant, and may be worn with handsome toilets.

The Ferronière cap, require a regular set of features; they are placed far back on head, and are prettier composed of blond than of any other material.

Those à la Marie Stuart, the denomination of which is perfectfy indicated by the two butterflies rising over each temple, and the point over the forehead, are certainly the most generally becoming; those caps composed of British point lace, lined with rose-coloured gauze, and ornamented with egrets of cut ribbon ends, form charming head-dresses: some are composed of tulle trimmed with ruches, which, though not so elegant are nevertheless very graceful.

Next to the above are the caps à la Babet, small light shapes, which should be coquetishly displayed far back on the head, and worn only over young foreheads that are not afraid of being uncovered.


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PLATE THIRTY-SEVEN. FIGURE 1.- WALKING DRESS. A gros de Naples redingote, high mounting flat corsage, wide sleevs with ornamented cuffs; the skirt full wide, bordered on each side in front with zig-zag dents; a black lace pelerine richly embroidered, the points crossed under the ceinture. A silk hat, round open shape, flat crown, trimmed with ribbon coques.

FIGURE II.-BRIDAL DRESS.-A satin dress, corsage en cœur, edged round the bust with a lace ruche; the sleeves short, trimmed with rich blond sabots; the skirt ornamented round the hem with a double fall of rich blond; Coiffure, the hair separated in front in smooth bandeaux, and elevated behind in large coques, surmounted by a bouquet of orange flowers, ornamented with a couronne of the same blossoms, and a lace scarf, the ends forming lappets, the ends descending beyond the waist.

FIGURE III.-MORNING WALKING DRESS.-A plain silk redingote, high mounting corsage, with square cut pelerine and falling collar; the skirt closed in front by four ribbon nœuds. A Leghorn capote, half closed shape, high pointed flat crown, ornamented with a bouquet of fancy flowers. A cashmere scarf round the


FIRST HAT & BACK VIEW.-A rice-straw hat, open shape, reaching low down the ears, ornamented with a bouquet of feathers.

SECOND HAT.-A silk hat, open round shape, high flat crown, circled with ribbons, and ornamented with a bouquet of feathers.

THIRD HAT.-A gros de Naples hat, round shape, edged with a ruche of tulle; high crown inclined be hind, trimmed with ribbon bars, and ornamented with a bouquet of dwarf flowers.

CENTRE HAT & BACK VIEW.-A Leghorn hat, round open shape, low flat crown slightly inclined behind, ornamented with two white feathers.

PLATE THIRTY-EIGHT. FIGURE 1. EVENING DRESS.--A satin dress, corsage en pointe, deep cut round the shoulders; a small pelerine edged with a narrow lace ruche; short sleeves; blond lace mittens; the skirt full wide, and thickly gathered round the waist, a narrow embroidery round the hem. Coif fure, à la Clotilde, ornamented with a Ferronière and a couronne of everlastings.

FIGURE II. DINNER DRESS.-An embroidered muslin dress, a tulle pelerine edged with a fall of deep lace; the skirt embroidered round the hem above the knee. Coiffure, the hair braided and disposed à la Clotilde.

FIGURE III-MORNING AT HOME DRESS.-A plain muslin redingote, the corsage high mounting, edged. in front and round the neck with a double ruche; closed with ribbon nœuds; the sleeves wide at the shoulders, close fitting below the elbow, and turned up cuff. A tulle cap, with a double row of trimming disposed en aureole, the crown divided in melon sections; side curls.

FIRST HAT & BACK VIEW.-A Leghorn hat, half closed shape, high pointed crown, trimmed with ribbon bars, and ornamented with two white feathers.

SECOND HAT & BACK VIEW.-A rice-straw hat, rounded shape, flat crown, trimmed with nœuds of cut

ribbon ends, and ornamented whith two ostrich feathers arched over the shape.

COIFFURE & BACK VIEW.-The hair separated over the forehead. and disposed in full side curls, turned up smooth behind and elevated iu coques, ornamented with a bouquet of roses and foliage.

PLATE THIRTY-NINE.-FIGURE I.-WALKING DRESS. -A poux-de-soie redingote with a pelerine trimmed with lace; the skirt ornamented in front, and trimmed with black lace. A crape capote, small open shape, flat crown, trimmed with ribbon bars and coques, ornamented with a bouquet.

FIGURE II.-EVENING DRESS.-An embroidered organdi dress, half high mounting corsage, edged with a narrow lace round the bust; the sleeves wide in the upper part, close fitting from below the elbow. Head dress, a blond cap with barbes, the trimming forming aureole, ornamented with flowers.

FIGURE III.-EVENING DRESS.-A gros de Naples dress, flat corsage, a black lace pelerine rounded on the back, the points in front fastened under the ceinture. A black lace cap edged with a narrow ruche, and ornamented with egrets of cut ribbon ends.

CAP & BACK VIEW.-A blond cap, the trimming forming a point on one side, the opening edged with a ruche, trimmed with ribbon nœuds and point, and ornamented with a bouquet of small roses.

FIRST HAT & BACK VIEW-A crape hat, round open shape, low flat crown, ornamented with an ostrich feather arched over the shape.

CENTRE HAT & BACK VIEW.-A gros de Naples hat, half closed shape, flat crown, trimmed with a large nœud of the same material, and ornamented with everlastings.

PLATE FORTY.-FIGURE 1.-WALKING DRESS.-A Terry velvet dress, corsage en pointe, with flat plaits round the bust, supported by narrow bands; the sleeves wide in the whole length; the skirt plain; a Swiss chemisette composed of embroidered muslin; a black tulle scarf embroidered in coloured silks. A gros d'Orient hat, edged with a tulle ruche, and ornamented with a feather.

FIGURE 11.-EVENING DRESS.-A satin cloak with A dressa cape of rich lace falling below the waist. hat composed of Terry velvet, ornamented with a rich plume.

FIGURE III.EVENING DRESS.-A Pekin dress, the designs large and in bright colours; a black blond de Camargo mantilla lined with rose-coloured gros Naples. A crape hat, open turned up shape, inclined crown, ornamented with pinked feathers.

CAPOTE & BACK VIEW.-An iced pou-de-soie capote, edged with a ruche of white tulle, and ornamented with a ribbon chou.

FIRST HAT & BACK VIEW.-A gros de Naples hat, half close chape, round crown, trimmed with large ribbon coques.

CENTRE HAT & BACK VIRW.-A gros des Indes hat, half close shape, round crown, trimmed in the interior with a ribbon egret, ornamented with a branch of fancy flowers.


"Le Follet Courrier des Salons". '---" Le Pettit Cour rier des Dames"-" La Mode"---" Journal des Dames" &c. &c.

MODES.-Nous avons vu quelques femmes portant avec des amazones une espèce de petites casquettes en velours noir, au lieu du chapeau d'homme si disgracieux pour la plupart des physionomies. Cette coiffure paraissait très-jolie, mais peut-être ne devait elle son succés qu'à la jolie physionomie qu'elle ombrageait. Du reste, il semble étonnant que nous, si peu astreintes aux coutumes et à la fixité des modes, nous n'ayons pu encore nous affranchir de l'habitude de porter à cheval la coiffure d'un homme, tandis que tant de gracieuses inventions pourraient y être substituées avec avantage. Peutêtre la nouveauté que nous annonçons est-elle un premier pas. Cette casquette avait la forme ronde et plate comme un fond de béret; la passe formait un bord de quatre doigts qui entourait également tout le tour; le tour de la tête était cintré par un velour bouclé sur le devant; une petite bride de velours passait sous le


Les poches redeviennent décidément sinon une mode, du moins un usage; beaucoup de femmes les ont adoptées aujourd'hui. D'abord, pour premier essai, on figura des poches sur le devant des robes, en marquant leur place par une broderie, une dentelle ou une petite garniture. Nous en avons donné, au commencement de l'été, le premier modèle exécuté par Mme Minette: elle ne laissait point en doute le succés de cette innovation; aussi bientôt après l'imitation, vint la réalité. On plaça à quelques robes de fantaisie de petites poches qui en devenaient un ornement, puis on en apprécia l'utilité; enfin, aujourd'hui, à la plupart des robes on fait tout bonnement deux petites poches adaptées de chaque côté, et dont l'ouverture se trouve dans les plis du jupon, lorsqu'on ne veut point l'enjoliver par une garniture ou autre ornement. Sur des robe de soie on fait des poches garnies d'une ruche d'étoffe pareille à la robe. Nul doute qu'avant peu on vendra de petites poches absolument comme celles de nos grand'mères, et qu'on appor tera beaucoup de recherches à la confection de ce nouvel accessoire de la toilette.

Nous avons vu une charmente robe en foulard, a grands dessins variés dans de vives nuances. Elle avait une pélerine dont la pointe de devant et celle du dos étaient prises sous la ceinture; deux autres pointes retombaient sur les épaules. Cette pélerine et son collet étaient garnis d'une dentelle noire, n'ayant que trois doigts de hauteur; le tour de la ceinture était également garni d'une dentelle qui retombait sur la jupe, et une double rangée de dentelle froncée marquait les poches de chaque côté du jupon. Cette robe avait aussi le bas des manches garni d une manchette de dentelle noire.

On continue à faire les manches extrêmement larges du haut. La seul nouveauté consiste dans les ornemens qui s'emploient pour les rendre étroites du bas. On la serre par des poignets placés à un doigt de distance depuis le coude, ou une quantité de petites coulisses. On fait aussi des manches toutes larges qui sont retenues u bas du bras par un revers qui retourne de la hauteur d'une main, et serre ainsi les plis de la manche; cela

ressemble aux immense poignets que l'on portait il y a quatre ans. La seule différence est que le revers est ouvert sur le côté comme un parement d'habit d'homme. Ce revers est quelquefois entouré d'unegarniture froncée ou d'une dentelle.

CHAPEAUX.-Nous avons remarqué cette semaine plusieurs chapeau très-élégans, soit en paille de riz ou d'Italie, qui s'étaient affranchis des petites formes serrées, pour prendre celles évasées et arrondies, qui donnent tant de grâce à la physionomie; les passes en étaient cependant assez courtes, mais larges et arrondies, très dégagées vers les oreilles. Les formes sont toujours assez petites et rejetées en arrière. Une paille de riz ainsi coupée n'a qu'une seule fleur placée de côté, soit un pavot, un daļhia, etc.

On fait de charmans chapeaux en blonde noire, à fond ouvragé; ils ne sont point doublés. La forme se maintient par des coulisses dans lesquelles sont passées des pailles entourées de rubans roses. La forme se fait en capote inclinée en arrière, ou en maniére de chapeau, également composée par des coulisses; pour ornement, nne grosse rose, ou un bouquet de roses de haie d'une nuance pâle; les brides et les nœuds en ruban de gaze rose tendre.

BONNETS.-Les petits bonnets en lingerie sont aujourd'hui si jolis et si variés dans leurs formes, qu'ils sont adoptés par les femmes de tous les âges et de toutes les physionomies, car il se trouve dans les coupes et les ornemens de ces bonnets tant de différentes dispositions, qu'il est impossible de ne pas rencontrer celle qui couvient. Nous avons déjà cité les bonnets a la juive, qui ont pour garniture un bouffant de tulle ou de mousseline séparé par des bandelettes formées par des entre-deux brodés; le devant du bonnet prend ainsi un peu l'aspect d'un turban moabite. Les bandelettes sont doublées en ruban rose, ou d'autres nuances qui se détachent parfaitement sur les plis de mousseline; l'une d'elles passe sous le menton. Cette forme, bien que négligée, est élégante et peut se porter avec de jolies toilettes.

Les bonnets Ferronnière ont un genre qui nécessite des traits réguliers. Ils se placent très en arrière, et sont plus jolis en blonde qu'en lingerie.

Les bonnets à la Marie-Stuart, dont la dénomination est parfaitement indiquée par les deux papillons qui se soulèvent de chaque côté des tempes, et la pointe qui baisse au milieu du front, sont sans contredit ceux qui vont le mieux en général, et conviennent aux physionomies de caprice. Ces bonnets, en point d'Angleterre, doublés en gaze rose, et ornés de coques de ruban découpées en gaze rose, et placées en aigrettes, forment de charmantes coiffures. On en fait aussi en tulle garni de ruches, qui, moins élégans, ne laissent pas d'être gracieux.

Viennent après les bonnets à la Babet, petite forme légère et mutine qui doit se placer avec coqueterie, très en arière de la tête, et se recommande à tous les jeunes fronts qui ne craignent point de se découvrir. La gar niture en est assez étroite, et est soutenue en auréole par des ornemens de rubans de gaze

BLONDES ET DENTELLES.-Nous avons vu un nouveau genre de mantelet qui surpasse, en élégance et en gracieuseté, tout ce qui a été fait en ce genre. La forme, le tissu, les desseins, étant confectionnés dans la fabrique de dentelle, présentent une harmonie et une perfection que ne peut atteindre aucune coupe donnée par les ci



aware of.

Ventilation of Bed-Rooms.-There should be a constant circulation of fresh air in bed-rooms. The lungs must respire during sleep as well as at any other time, and it is of great importance to have, when asleep, as pure an air as possible. It is calculated that each person neutralizes the vivifying principle of a gallon of air in one minute; what havoc, therefore, must an individual make upon the pure air of his bed. chamber, who sleeps in a bed closed snugly with curtains, with the doors and windows shut, and, perehance, a chimneyboard into the bargain! Our health and comfort depend more upon these apparently trivial points, than most people are "Confined air," says Dr. Franklin, "when satu. rated with perspirable matter, (the quantity of which is calculated to be about five-eighths of what we eat), will not receive more, and that matter must remain in our bodies, and cause disease....We may recollect, sometimes, on waking in the night, we have, if warmly covered, found it difficult to get to sleep again. We turn often without finding repose in any position. This fidgetiness, to use a vulgar expression, is occasioned wholly by an uneasiness in the skin, owing to the retention of the perspirable matter." To obviate the ill effects of this annoyance, the following rule is recommended; Preserve the same position in your bed, but throw off the clothes, and freely admit the fresh air. This will clear the skin of its perspiration, and you will experience a decided and speedy refreshment. If this be not successful, get out of bed, and walk about the room; and having shaken the bed. clothes well, turn them down, and let the bed get cool. When you begin to feel the cool air unpleasant return to bed, when you will experience the good effects of your plan. The bed itself should always be so placed as to admit a free cir. čulation of air round it, and the curtains (if curtains there must be) ought never to be perfectly closed.-It would be well, if in all the apartments, but especially in bed-chambers, the upper sashes of the windows were contrived to let down; for, by this means, the admission of fresh air would be at all times perfectly safe, as the body, even when under such a sweat as could not without danger be interrupted, may receive all the refreshing, restorative, and invigorating influence of the air, without being exposed to à stream of it.-Franklin himself, whatever might be the season, slept with his window open more or less, and advised his friends to do the same, many of whom adopted the practice and acknowledged the advantages of it.-Fifty or sixty years ago the prejudice against the admission of air in the day-time into a sick room was as great as it now is against the admission of the night air into a bed-chamber. Early habits, and fear, are arbitrary



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The Patience of the Poor.-Nothing astonishes me so much as the patience of the honest poor. They rise up hungry and go weary to bed (when bed they have), while their less scrupulous neighbours get what they want from the parish by asking. The honest poor know that they are working harder and harder for wages which are continnally lessening, and must go on to do so, in order that the increasing number of the impoverished may be supported; and yet the honest poor work on. They feel within their inmost heart that it is they who deserve the sympathy and encouragement (they do not ask the gifts) of the rich; and yet they see this encouragement given to the slothful and encroaching, and do not become encroaching too. When they find their spirit of independence despised, their virtuons toils contemptuously pitied, and their mutual charities ridiculed by their companions, they nourish their high feelings in secret, instead of exchanging them for profitable dependence. If there is heroic virtue to be found on earth, it is in the dwellings of the independent poor. If there is oppression upon earth, it is in sacrificing them to their pauper neighbours. If there is one work rather than another where the devil would delight to lend a helping hand, it is ́ia transforming the one race into the other.-Miss Martineau.

Female Education.-Let your first care be to give your little -girls a good physical education. Let their early years be passed, if possible, in the country, gathering flowers in the fields, and partaking of all the free exercises in which they delight, When they grow older, do not condemn them to sit eight listless hours a day over their books, their work, their maps, and their music. Be assured that half the number of hours passed in real attention to well-ordered studies will make them more accomplished and more agreeable companions

than those commonly are who have been most elaborately finished, in the modern acceptation of the term. The systems by which young ladies are taught to move their limbs according to the rules of art, to come into a room with studied diffidence; and to step into a carriage with measured action and premeditated grace, are only calculated to keep the degrading idea perpetually present, that they are preparing for the great market of the world. Real elegance of demeanour springs from the mind; fashionable schools do but teach its imitation, whilst their rules forbid to be ingenuous. Philosophers never conceived the idea of so perfect a vacuum as is found to exist in the minds of young women who are supposed to have finished their education in such establishments. If they marry husbands as uninformed as themselves, they fall into habits of indolent insignificance without much pain; if they marry persons more accomplished, they can retain no hold of their affection. Hence many matrimonial miseries, in the midst of which the wife finds it a consolation, to be always complaining of her health and ruined nerves.-In the education of young women we would say-let them be secured from all the trappings and manacles of such a system; let them partake of every active exercise not absolutely unfe. minine, and trust to their being able to get into or out of a carriage with a light and graceful step, which no drilling can accomplish. Let them rise early and retire early to rest, and trust that their beauty will not need to be coined into artificial smiles in order to ensure a welcome, whatever room they enter. Let them ride, walk, run, dance, in the open air. encourage the merry and innocent diversions in which the young delight; let them, under proper guidance, explore every hill and valley; let them plant and cultivate the garden, and make hay when the summer sun shines, and surmount all dread of a shower of rain or the boisterous wind; and, above all, let them take no medicine except when the doctor orders it. The demons of hysteria and melancholy might höver over a group of young ladies so brought up; but they would not find one of them on whom they could exercise any power.

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Strained Characters.-Even virtue, laborionsly and painfully acquired, was distasteful to him. I might almost affirm, that a faulty but vigorous character, if it had any real native qualities as its basis, was regarded by him with more indul. gence and respect than one which at no moment of its existence is genuine; which is incessantly under the most nnamiable constraint, and consequently imposes a painful constraint on others."Oh," said he, sighing, on such occasions, "if they had but the heart to commit some absurdity! That would be something, and they would at least be restored to their own natural soil, free from all bypocrisy and acting. Wherever that is the case, one may entertain the cheering hope that something will spring from the germ of good which nature implants in every individual; but on the ground they are now open, nothing can grow."-"Pretty dolls!" was his common expression, when speaking of them. Another favourite phrase was, "That's a piece of nature;" which from Goethe's lips was considererble praise.


Rank. It is a terrible thing, says Pascal, to reflect on the effect of rank; it gives to a child, newly born, a degree of consideration, which half a century of labour and virtue could not procure.

-No grossly dissipated man was ever just or generous; lavish he may be amongst those that pay him back the interest of servile flattery and vile enjoyment. Home is as insipid to him as a squeezed orange; if any property remains in the exhausted rind, it is bitterness; and he attributes, never appropriates the faults that have made it such.

Scott's Best.-I must mention an incident at one of the Holland-house dinners, though I was not present. Scott's novels became a topic, a new one being out. One or two of the company expressed preferences among them. Before opinion had gone farther, Lady Holland proposed that each person should write, down the name of the novel liked best. paper and pencil were passed, and a slip torn off as each wrote. Nine were handed to her, and each had the name of a different novel!-a happy illustration of the various merit of this fascinating writer, [or of the want of judgment in his readers,]

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Fashions for October/18.33

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