Imatges de pÓgina


THE KING'S THEATRE.-Various crowded and brilliant audiences have been attracted to the King's Theatre, on the occasion of the benefits of the Manager and principal performers, but as the choice of pieces were in their own hands, the public had generally reason to be much more pleased with the talent of the dramatis persona, than with the judgment shewn in their selection. As, however, these benefits do not come legitimately within the scope of critical observation, we will only remark that on the whole they gave general satisfaction.

THE ENGLISH OPERA HOUSE.-ADELPHI.—Independently of the advantages of locality, has from its continued good management acquired a large share of public patronage. We suffer, however, one considerable drawback to our pleasure, from its ill constructed form and bad ventilation, through which the temperature is frequently raised to so great a degree as to become almost insupportable, as well as positively unwholesome.

A recent attraction here, and one which has been favourably received, is Serle's drama of the "The Yeoman's Daughter," in which he performs the hero; with a little more of nature in his personations, the author would become no bad actor. Mrs. Waylett as the Daughter, and Mrs. Griffiths in the part of the afflicted Mother acquitted themselves in a highly creditable manner. Williams as the Farmer, may also be particularized for his excellent personification of the character. Reeve has the part of a Rat-catcher, the bare mention of which is sufficient to summon ludicrous associations.

At the HAYMARKET there has been no lack of sterling pieces.-Comedies, operas, farces, &e. The partial closing of the large theatres, seems to have given a new impetus to Mr. Morris, and he has lately exerted himself more than ever in affording entertainment to his audience.


My Wife's Mother," a two-act comedy, written or rather translated by young Mathews, is made the vehicle for showing the delights with which a newly married couple may be sometimes inflicted by the presence of a particularly officious mother-in-law. Mrs. Glover, Mr. Farren, and the greater part of the stock of talent were engaged in this piece.

"The Housekeeper, or, The White Rose; by Jerrold, was well received, it was throughout a well sustained performance, and indebted for much of its success to the able support it received from the talented company engaged here.

The VICTORIA is now holding up its head higher than ever, there have been lately pieces produced here which do some credit to the management, and we may be allowed to augur still better things from their future administration. Warde, who has as fine a perception of character as almost any performer on the stage, has had parts assigned to him which have been literally redeemed by his judicious management of them. His performance of the Heart-broken Father, in Clari, which was brought out some time since, was truly worthy of him, and produced several rounds of applause from the audience. He has since had more ample scope for his abilities in the drama of The King's Fool, in which are employed the whole strength of the company by this strong cast, they have done no

more than justice to a production of great merit, which for powerful interest, high tone of feeling, and elegance of language, takes a foremost place amongst the ranks of modern dramatic compositions.


We can recommend to our fair readers, whose curiosity might lead to prosecute an antiquarian research in costume, to visit the Exhibition of the veritable dresses worn by our fore-mothers; some of them included in the family of Cromwell, others belonging to the lofty dames of the high church party. The state of preservation in which these dresses still are, the vividness of the colors, and the substantial nature of the fabrics, will astonish many of the connoisseures in these


Mr. Martin's picture of Belshazzar's Feast, has been imitated on a very large scale, to produce a dioramic effect. On the first contemplation, the eye is struck with the almost real appearance and dazzling splendor of the scene; though some of the subordinate figures will lose by an attentive examination. There is a very effective group of female figures well and gracefully put in. The Physioramic views which may be seen without further expence, are of very unequal merit, some not worth looking at; the architectural ones however will very well repay the trouble of a peep.

We were almost about (horribil dictu) to omit the mention of Mr. Bertolotto's well tutored fleas; the birth, parentage, and education of which this ingenious artist was kind enough to unfold to us. We might fill a whole number with their praise, and publish their feats to all the civilized world, but we prefer sending our attentive readers to view them with their own sparkling eyes.

A most agreeable hour may be spent by a lover of the arts, at the exhibition of "Paintings by the Old Masters", at Exeter Hall. There are some very fine specimens of various subjects: Sacred and Profane; Historical, Landscape, &c. amongst the very finest, certainly the most captivating, is the picture of Love, by Domenichino, were the little god not quietly reposing on his bow, he might excite too great apprehension in the breasts of the spectators for a near approach; he is however in no hostile position, but appears only meditating an attack on some virgin heart.

We made our way, previous to leaving this place, through a dark, subterraneous looking passage, quite in keeping with the exhibition, to the "Model of a Mine," in course of operation: the spectacle is a singular one, and certainly unique; and there is one manifest advantage it has over a real one, that we have not to trust our precious persons down a most awful descent into the bowels of the earth in a pail; as Sheridan once did, for the sake of saying "That he had seen a coal pit." We are better judges, and can, without travelling farther than West Strand, affirm that we have verily seen a Mine.

We visited Vauxhall Gardens, on the day of the Gala and Fancy Fair, for the benefit of the Dispensary for Diseases of the Ear, the entertainments on which occasion were varied and numerous. At the Morning Concert, Signor Paganini gratuitously drew his bow, and was very hardly persuaded to re-appear to afford

the gratified audience a display of his wonderful skill on the single string. Madame Demeric, Grandolfi Seguin, and Signor De Begnis, Galli, &c. also aided the cause. The stalls for the sale of fancy articles, were generally superintended by the fashionables among our female nobility, who gave no small grace to the entertainment.


PALE walker in the silent night,
Dreaming some ancient harmony,
While thy feet, like moonlight, pass
Over the mossy cemet'ry-
With thy finger close mine eyes
Oh, take me to thy company.

Watcher at the churchyard gate,
I sit down by thee on the stone,
Thine arm is round me, and thy voice
Soundeth like some olden tone
From my mother's lips-it calleth
The weary one-thine own!


FROM A VARIETY OF THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES INCLUDING COPIOUS EXTRACTS FROM "Le Petit Courrier des Dames"-" Journal des Dames et des Modes, L'Observateur des Modes et L'Indiscret"- -"Le Follet Courrier des Salons"-" Le Mercure des Salons," &c. &c.

DRESSES.-Uniformity in the ensemble of the toilet is not now so imperiously required. The eye is no longer shocked, if with a rose or brown-coloured dress a rose or brown cravat is not worn; on the contrary, light green and cherry-coloured ribbons and fichus are worn with almost all colours; these two shades match with a confusion of different perfectly well shades.

Black lace appears as a distinguished elegance; black mittens as an eccentricity of an old fashion revived, but as black lace and black mittens are favorable to the complexion and skin, they were at first adopted with fureur, and so much worn by everybody, that it is more than probable that they will not be seen next season, at least amongst that class with which they originated.

Wrappers are more numerous than ever; the richest materials are employed for this description of dress. Foulards and woollen muslins are much employed for this purpose. We will mention one composed of rose coloured silk muslin with designs of green oak leaves. The petticoat was of white gros de-Naples; the chemisette of British point lace; a rice straw hat ornamented with a rose-coloured poppy.

Most élégantes of the fashionable world, wear painted Pekin dresses, notwithstanding the opposition existing between this material and the season; these dresses have very light designs on white grounds, small bouquets of blue carnations on a dove-coloured ground, made a very pretty dress; another was with bell flowers, rose, yellow and lilac on a white ground, was worn by a lady highly distinguished for her good taste.

For morning neglige toilets, white jacconots. For evening, white muslin. Striped muslin redingotes, are closed in front of the

skirt by nœuds of iced ribbon of a light rose or straw colour.

We have seen a morning redingote of white muslin, in which each side of the skirt in front was bordered with crevés of embroidered tulle; between each crevě was a noud of rose-coloured gauze ribbon, the ends descending below the crevê. This ladder of nœuds corresponded with those which separated the sabots on the long sleeves. A ceinture with long ends fastened in front, and descending on a white gros de Naples petticoat; the corsage rather open on the chest, with a round falling collar, trimmed with a double row of lace.

With embroidered jaconot redingotes, the petticoat should be embroidered with the same designs as the redingote.

Many pelerines with long ends, are made of plain muslin, bordered with a wide hem only. Some are edged with narrow lace.

Though the heat has been far from oppressive, many ladies have adopted the blouse-wrappers for morning dresses. The front is gathed in puckers on each side, and simply fastened by a ceinture of the same material. Jaconot-chalys, and cashmeres, are most used for this description of dress; a very pretty sort is a small Turkish palm on a white ground. To avoid all unnecessary accessaries with this easy and comfortable dress, collerettes are worn, that have the trimmings mounted on a band, and are made fast to a ribbon which forms cravat round the neck.

Small black lace veils are worn with neglige dresses. Black lace trimmings are seen even on muslin dresses. We have seen some handsome pockets trimmed with small nœuds; to those who are inclined to take our advice, we cannot too strongly recommend the adoption of this ancient but useful fashion. The noeuds are thus disposed: the slit or opening is trimmed all round with a slight pucker or small plaits, and marked at each extremity by a nœud, the lower one larger and two smaller nœuds on each side.

The pelerines-mantelets composed of coloured muslins or jaconots, are sometimes fastened with taffeta nœuds, the ceinture of gros grain, but it is in better taste to have them of the same material as the dress.

For neglige wrappers, the ceinture must be similar to the dress.

The skirts of dresses very wide, plain and long, particularly behind, but those of redingotes are often trimmed. We will describe one of rose-coloured gros de Naples, the corsage en cœur and open, trimmed with a wide mantilla of black lace extending low down the sleeves; a corsage between the mantilla and the ceinture, a nœud of rose-coloured taffeta ribbon covered with black lace, and from the ceinture to the lower extremity of the skirt, seven nœuds similar to that of the corsage, disposed at equal distances, but widening as they descend. The lappings similarly ornamented.

SHAWLS.-The most fashionable summer shawls are of silk, brilliant and soft, the ground black with large orange or rose-coloured designs, and edged round with long silk fringe.

Black gauze shawls, hand embroidered, in silk of all colours, and intermixed with gold, are prettier than those embroidered in floss silk.

SCARFS.-Light gauze scarfs are numerous, but those of printed gauze or silk muslin are in better taste. Short gauze scarfs terminated by tassels and figuring

necklace, are become too cheap and common, black blond mounted on a coloured ribbon, chintzed or with lozenges of different colours, and edged on each side with narrow black lace, are generally preferred.

Even the small bags or reticules are trimmed or covered with black lace.

CEINTURES.-Buckles are less worn than nœuds, particularly with elegant wrappers.

Ribbons for ceintures are still loaded with printed or figured designs.

We have seen a scarf, or rather a mantelet of a novel description, formed by rose-coloured gauze ribbon, figured with black designs, and separated by entre-deux of black lace, the trimming was of ribbons edged with lace, no ruche in front; a stomacher of narrow lace laid flat and joined by nœuds from the neck to the extremity of the mantelet.

HATS & CAPOTES.-A few drawn capotes are still worn; the handsomest we have seen for morning neglige dresses, were composed of gros de Naples écrue, trimined with striped gros de Naples ribbons; a small cap of plain tulle, ornamented on each side with three gauze ribbon leaves, blue, rose, or cherry-coloured.

Rice straw or crape hats are profusely but tastefully ornamented with flowers.

The shape of capotes at present may be divided in two classes, those placed in a vertical line, and having the appearance of being on a level with the crown. These capotes are placed so far back on the head, that the brim, or edge is on a line with the forehead, barely covering the narrow trimming of the cap worn under them. In opposition to this make, another has appeared, the crown of which is composed of gros de Naples, and resembling a cone: the shapes of ricestraw round and close on the cheek, trimmed with gauze ribbon brides or ties which encircle the crown and fasten under the chin, ornamented with a bouquet of pinks.

The crowns of Leghorns are higher, and the shapes not so small as those composed of silk materials; they are ornamented with a large flower tastefully displayed, without ribbons or any other accessory.

Some very graceful rice-straw small hats are thus made, the crown of gros de Naples is gathered by coulises, the shape of rice-straw, lined with rose-coloured silk, ornamented with a rose.

Another hat of the same description, lined with green, the crown of green gros de Naples; on one side a bouquet of geranium, separated in the middle by a white straw open worked band.

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Pocket handkerchiefs are still with wide embroidered hems, above the hem a wreath, and the corners richly embroidered.

Chemisettes and pelerines are now without ruches round the throat, all are made with small falling collars, or a narrow lace laid flat.

Morning chemisettes are with embroidered cambric, trimmed with Valenciennes lace; double collars are elegant, but to avoid their heavy appearance, a double wreath is embroidered on the collar, separated by a double row of lace, which figures a double collar.

Plain muslin pelerines are worn with negliges, the wide hem of which is cut in pointed dents, turned over on the material, thus producing a succession of bright and dead white points which has a pretty effect.

FANTASIA. The most elegant purses are of light netting, white, with enamelled springs and runners.

A new sort of purse much in fashion is produced by various coloured silk twists sewed together, and gathered at the extremities instead of tassels. Black and red, white and blue has a pretty effect. Silk cords twisted in quadrilles are applied to this purpose, and make very strong and handsome purses.

Parasols are made which are entirely covered on the outside with black blond, and lined with coloured taffeta; the mountings in ivory set with gold.

COIFFURES. The hair at the present season is arranged in the most simple manner. The bandeaux à la Marguerite are still in great favor; an innovation has however been attempted, which is a tuft of hair, placed on each side over the bandeaux.

MATERIALS AND COLOURS.-The fashionable world appears inclined to secede from that affectation of the goût simple in which it had fallen for the last two years. At present, without a chance of being noted as particular, we may wear what materials we please, providing the make and cut be according to the present fashion. Laces continue to enjoy the same degree of favor, and embroidery its endless variety and elegance of designs. Rich materials alone are employed in all dresses except for negliges. Grenadin-foulards, silk and cashmere tissues, and woollen muslins, are above every other material considered in good taste for demitoilets. For morning wrappers, dark shaded jaconots with Mosaique or Arabesque designs, or large brightcoloured flowers on a black or brown ground, are much employed.

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FIGURE II.-CARRIAGE DRESS. A tulle dress with long pointed gros de Naples pelerine closed in front with taffeta noeuds, edged with lace widening over the shoulders and forming épaulettes. A rice-straw hat, small open shape, low inclined crown, ornamented with a feather; the ties trimmed with a ruche.

FIGURE III.-WALKING DRESS. A silk-gauze dress, with cambric double pelerine indented over the shoul ders, round falling collar, the points crossed under the ceinture, and edged all round with narrow scolloped muslin. A rice-straw hat lined with silk, tastefully trimmed with figured gauze ribbons, and ornamented with Chinese honeysuckle.

FIRST HAT & BACK VIEW.-A straw hat, half-close shape, pointed crown ornamented with a large rose.

SECOND HAT & BACK VIEW.-A Cresontine Spa wood hat, open shape, inclined crown trimmed with taffeta ribbons, edged with a double ruche, and ornamented with a bouquet of fancy flowers.

THIRD HAT & BACK VIEW.-A poux de soie capote, close shape, high pointed doom-shaped crown, trimmed with noeud of the same material, and ornamented with fancy flowers.

CENTRE HAT.A figured silk hat, open shape, round crown, trimmed with ribbon bars, and ornamented with roses.

PLATE THIRTY. FIGURE 1.-WALKING DRESS.--A silk redingote, deep cut corsage, the plaits caught up in the middle and maintained by a band extending to the ceinture; a tulle chemisette edged round the throat with a ruche; the sleeves wide from the shoulder to the elbow, and turned up similar to a cuff; under this a second sleeve is fastened above the elbow, and close fitting from thence to the wrist; the skirt open in front and lined with sarcenet of a different shade from that of the dress. A gauze scarf with a tassel at each end. A rice-straw hat, small open shape, high pointed crown, trimmed with ribbon coques, and ornamented with flowers.

FIGURE II-WALKING DRESS. A white muslin dress with pelerine edged with three rows of round plaits. A black lace cravat. A figured silk hat, the shape small, the centre elevated, trimmed with large ribbon coques, and ornamented with wild flowers.

FIGURE III. CARRIAGE DRESS. A jaconet dress, figured in colonades, a black blond pelerine with square falling collar, the points descending low down the skirt and fastened in front with light green ribbon noeuds. A ribbon capote, half closed shape, round erown, tastefully trimmed with ribbon noeuds.

FIRST HAT & BACK VIEW.-A gros de Naples hat, small open shape, high pointed crown trimmed in front with a large coque, and ornamented with a branch of lilac.

SECOND HAT & BACK VIEW.-A rice-straw hat, half closed shape, the side descending below the ear, lined with silk, a ribbon noeud on one side and a bouquet of feathers on the other.

CAPOTE & BACK VIEW.-A rice-straw capote, the crown inclined and composed of silk edged with a double row of dented ribbon, and trimmed with ribbon noeuds.

COIFFURE & BACK VIEW.-The hair turned up smooth behind and elevated in smooth coques, supported by gold headed darts, the hair in front separated in smooth bandeaux à la Marguerite.

PLATE THIRTY-ONE.-FIGURE I.-CARRIAGE DRESS. -A printed jaconet redingote, the corsage close fitting

with flat transversal plaits; a pelerine with a double row of sharp dents fastened round the neck by a black blond cravat, the skirt open in front; the sleeves long fitting from the elbow to the wrist. A ricestraw hat, open shape, high pointed crown, ornamented with a bouquet of feathers.

FIGURE II-MORNING WALKING DRESS.-An embroidered jaconot redingote with square cut pelerine ; muslin petticoat edged with scolloped lace. A small bibi shaped capote, trimmed with ribbon bars and noeuds, ornamented with dwarf roses.

FIGURE III.—Walking Dress A gros de Naples dress, pointed corsage with small pelerine indented at the shoulders and arched in the middle; an embroidered cambric canezou; the skirt very wide, and disposed in rich deep plaits, a deep hem. A rice-straw hat, small open shape, pointed crown, trimmed with roses or circles of narrow flat laid lace disposed at equal distances, a noeud of cut ribbon ends and flowers.

CAPOTE & BACK VIEW.-A ribbon capote, trimmed with noeuds of cut ribbon ends, and ornamented with flowers.

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Les habitudes de campagne semblent avoir acquis un nouveau degré de liberté. Jamais il n'y eut moins d'exigence pour la tenue, le décorum, etc. Au matin, les femmes ont le peignoir de jaconas à petits dessins ou de couleur écrue, au-dessus duquelle rabat le collet de batiste de la chemise de nuit, dont le sabot se laisse aussi apercevoir sur le devant de la poitrine, ainsi que les manchettes au bas des manches; avec cela des cheveux lisses sous un petit bonnet de batiste, à coulisse, garni d'une dentelle; des pantoufles en peau anglaise imprimée, des mitaines de fil d'Ecosse blanc à jour. Voilà la tenue du premier matin, matin qui se compte depuis huit heures jusqu'à une heure de l'après-midi : alors la toilette est plus recherchée. Le peignoir est en foulard, ou en mousseline, ou en jaconas blanc brodé. Les cheveux sont relevés en belles tresses; un collier de dentelle noir ou un fichu de fantaisie se noue autour du cou. On porte des bottines ou de jolies guêtres; les mitaines sont noires, et la plupart portent d'élégans tabliers à poches ou à épaulettes brodées, et enjolivés dans tous les genres. Quant aux costumes de dîner et de visite de voisinage que l'on fait pendant les longues soirées, ils sont variés selon les caprices; c'est alors qu'apparaissent les belles pélerines, les canezous brodés au plumetis, les robes bordées, les chapeaux en paille d'Italie, et même ceux en paille de riz. Rien n'est joli, pour la campagne, comme les capotes en tissu de l'Inde dont nous avons fait mention.

Les peignoirs sont plus nombreux qu'ils ne l'ont jamais été. On donne cette coupe aux étoffes même du plus grand prix. Les foulards et les mousselines de laine sont beaucoup employés pour cet usage. On en fait en mousseline de soie qui sont d'une fraîcheur char. mantè. Nous en citerons un en mousseline de soie rose tendre, sur lequel était un dessin fouilli en feuilles de chêne vertes; cela formait un costume charmant. Le jupon de dessous était en gros de Naples; la chemisette en point d'Angleterre; le chapeau, en paille de riz, orné d'un pavot rosé.

Les grandes élégantes portent beaucoup de robes en pékin peint, malgré l'opposition qui semble exister entre cette étoffe et la saison. Ces robes ont à la vérité des dessins excessivement légers sur des fonds blancs, ou de nuances très-tendres. Des petits bouquets d'œillets bleus sur un fond tourterelle, faisaient une charmante robe; une autre, avec des branches de clochettes roses, jaunes et lilas, sur un fond blanc, était portée par une femme très distinguée pour son bon goût.

Les dessins les plus comme il faut sont toujours trèsgrands. Des bouquets assez séparée sur des fonds de fin jaconas, ou mousseline blanche, se préfèrent pour toilette de campagne. On voit néanmoins encore beaucoup de dessins à colonnes.

De gracieux petits chapeaux se font en paille de riz, avec un fond en gros de Naples à coulisse; une passe en paille de riz doublée en rose; un fond rosé et une fleur rosée pour ornement, était une charmante fantaisie.

Un autre chapeau du même genre, doublé en vert, avait un fond en gros de Naples vert; sur le côté, un bouquet de géranium, séparé au milieu par une attache en paille blanche.

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