contrary ways to each other. In general, blond lace, wherever employed, is so in profusion; it is the most fashionable ornament in request for the toilette; none can certainly be more becoming: large sized flowers, nœuds af ribbons are heavy and harsh to the features; light and transparent blond lace, on the contrary, softens and enlivens the complexion, and cannot be too plentifully employed round the face. Marabouts are now seldom or ever used on hats, but sometimes on berets or evening hats. The crown or shape of a new sort of beret has an appendice, varying in length, more or less inclined towards this or that shoulder, and always ornamented with a tassel: this termination, en pointe, in imitation of the kolback, a military head dress. A cachemire is often employed in the fashioning of a beret, and is inclined on the left, so as to leave the right side of the head uncovered. Two bracelets, clasped together, form a bandeau, te which sometimes is added two heron aigrettes. Capotes, of a clear lilac satin, lined with black velvet, trimmed with black blond lace. Crape robes, with long sleeves, draped corsages, crossed or trimmed with plain tulle, forming a double mantilla and plain skirts are worn by many elegantes. Above the hem, ten or twelve satin plaits or rouleaux. FULL DRESS.-Watered silk of a vivid rose cofour, long sleeves, chantilly white blond lace flowered columns, the corsage deep cut, edged with three rows of blond lace (different designs); from the knee downwards, three blond lace volans-the narrow, first; the deepest, last; six flat plaits on the hips, the body plain; ceinture of moire very wide, forming two large coques behind, and two short ends trimmed with blond lace, the lower part of the long sleeves ornamented points of moire trimmed with blond lace: these points meeting about halfway distancefrom thewrist to the elbow. Beret rose crape moire, with flat crown, one brim much larger on one than the other. For ornament-three ostrich feathers. EVENING FULL DRESS.---Toque, silver gau moire, crown rounded, similar to a turban; double brims, one extending; six ostrich feathers, Others of a light blue or pale rose colour; the toucan colour, two cantilla bandeaus, one formshape round, and ornamented with gauze ribbon.ing a border round the toque, the other rather JEWELLERY.-Mantle clasps of Berlin iron are more forward, and detached from the former one again becoming fashionable; some represent a distance of a few inches, and a little inclined bear's paws; others an oak branch, gold or on one side, so as to leave an opening for a few bronzed steel spectacle mountings the size of an curls. White satin dress, trimmed a little above ordinary pin. the knee with toucan fur, in the shape of V's, laid contrary ways, (VA). Corsage draped ho DRESSES, for the most part, have no trimmings; many have plain corsages, the sleeves progres-rizontally on the breast, with flat plaits on the sively diminishing towards the wrist, where they back; the epaulettes are made to fall; sleeves close without wristbands or gather. very short, plaited en evantail, (fan-like), short A velvet biais, a fur band; but for morning skirt, silk stockings, silver embroidered on the dresses nothing but a very deep hem. Large pelerines buttoning in front, quite plain or trimmed with blond clocks and instep. Conspicuous amongst the most becoming winter dresses, we must not omit that, lately worn by Madame ***. Silk, trimmed with black velvet ; the flowers a little below the knee composed of a small velvet rouleau, serpentant all round the skirt, small leaves supported by light stems, diverging from each side, small buds between each leaf; in front, two other rouleaus, equally or EVENING SILK DRESSES.-Velvet lappels laid flat on a plain corsage, made to lap on the shoulders, and form a jockey with four points. This fashion is extremely becoming, particularly if in light colours, the points edged with white blond lace, long sleeves of white blond lace. If a velvet dress, the points are edged with black blond lace.namented, descending from the ceinture, open Satin dresses are worn either as morning or evening robes. and urite with the above-mentioned one; corsage open, and trimmed on each side with two small velvet rouleaus; the chemisette same | nishing as far as the waist only, and from thence, till it joins the skirt band, is of the same dimensions. materials as the corsage, plaited horizontally, four gold diamonds, lozenge-shaped, for buttons. The sleeves of this corsage had but one bouffant, covered with velvet, pinked small dents; the collar of velvet. Some robes are embroidered with floss silk, but velvet and fur trimmings are in greater vogue. Another, of the same description, had, as trimmings, very small velvet rouleaus, crossed, so as to form small interwoven squares. In the spaces, left by white marguerites in the trimmings of a light blue robe, were some elongated, but small bouffans. One robe, whose only ornaments were two velvet rouleaus descending from behind the collar of the corsage to a little above the knee, and another rouleau from below the knee, bent and united with the ends of the first rouleaus so as to imitate the point. Another, somewhat similar to the above, had a branch garnished with green leaves, twining and following the rouleaus. The latest fashions of corsages, are those with velvet cut into different designs, namely, those whose collar and front, though not open, had two velvet rouleaus garnished with small leaves of the same materials; but each of a different green, so arranged as not to be glaring to the eye, and so disposed, as to mark or imitate the opening. Another, a velvet corsage, has the back in shape of a collar opened in the middle, and widening towards the edges; the front with lappels a schal; the whole trimmed with narrow blond lace. The trimming of the skirt composed of a single velvet rouleau, to which is added a double row of embroidered blond lace, pointed scollops. Another trimming, remarkable for its simplicity, is a wide band of fur at the lower part of the skirt, two rouleaus of fur for the collar, the opening of the corsage is crossed at the waist, and progressively widening, until it meets at the band at the bottom of the skirt, nearly imitating the boa, with this difference, that at the back of the corsage, in order to form a collar, the rouleau is wider in the middle, dimi On the collar and lappels of another, a gold embroidery in imitation of a necklace, terminating in front at the opening of the corsage. At a late ball, many of the dresses were of tulle, the ship of satin. One charming costume was composed of white gauze, sprinkled with small bouquets, the flowers of which were white pearls, the leaves green silk embroidery. A torsade of white pearls and green silk cord, marked the upper part of the hem. The corsage drapery cross-ways, trimmed with same torsade. Another robe, remarkably fashionable, is of a light green, having but three pearl bouquets for ornament, placed on the front of the skirt, at the height of the knee. A bouquet of pearls for the corsage, under a ceinture of white pearls with long ends, descending in torsades on the front of the robe.. The most admired for simplicity, are orape robes couleur immortelle, with a sattin cord only above the hem; corsage, double mantilla blond lace, blond lace sabots for the lower part of the sleeves. MATERIALS. The most elegant for evening dresses, are gauzes called cordellieres, also embroidered crapes; the designs are arranged in the newest and most graceful style. DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. PLATE THE FIRST. FIGURE TIME FIRST-WITH BACK VIEW. WALKING DRESS.-A dress of light green gros de Naples, with lappels of the same materials, falling over the sleeves, with two points, slightly crossed in front, and continued behind, rounded en pelerine; the back plain, full-bodied muslin chemisette, edged with embroidery, a dents de loup ceinture, richly embroidered ; gigot sleeves, plain skirt, very full on the hips, finished with a deep hem; satin hat, open shape, slightly closing towards the ears, the 4 THE MAGAZINE OF THE BEAU MONDE; right brim elevated, elegantly trimmed with blond, and two sprigs of fancy flowers; necklace and bracelets, rubies plainly set in gold. FIGURE THE SECOND. DINNER DRESS.---Deep ruby-coloured satin; corsage plain, high closed in front, by four gold buttons; velvet lappels of the same colour, laid flat on the corsage, jockey epaulettes, velvet, same colour, cut in points, and hemmed with black blond. Sleeves wide, narrowing progressively, till closing round the waist, without gathers, and edged with black blond. Skirt very full, terminated with a velvet biais, above which is a deep black blond. deep black blond. Bracelets, a l'esclave. The cap of tulle, richly edged with blond, elegantly disposed en coquilles, round the face; a single noeud of ribbon, the ends deeply indented, small sprigs of flowers, tastefully arranged, so as to support the blond. FIGURE THE THIRD-WITH BACK VIEW. EVENING DRESS.---A dress of white gauze, plain corsage, edged with narrow blond lace round the bust, pink-coloured lappels of gros des Indes, deeply dented, large noeuds of the same materials, nearly covering the short beret sleeves, ceinture of wide pink ribbon, fringed. Skirt, deep hem, surmounted by three pink satin rouleaus, terminated on the left with a noeud of satin and small bouquet. Scarf to correspond. Necklace, three rows of pearls. Coiffure composed of two coques, and two plaited tresses, with rows of pearls, tastefully entwined round the plaits, and a bouquet. FIRST CAP-WITH BACK VIEW. A cap of embroidered tulle, ornamented with nœuds of gauze, figured on each edge; the ends with deep dents. SECOND CAP-WITH BACK VIEW. Plain tulle cap, elegantly ornamented with blond lace and gauze ribbons, figured in the middle, and flowers tastefully disposed. PLATE THE SECOND. of the same colour, a second collar full and deeply indented and fringed as the one above; the colour is pense lined with white satin. FIGURE THE SECOND. EVENING DRESS-A rich Cachemire Redingote, plain corsage uni, cut half high with a fringed pelerine, covering the shoulders, wide sleeves divided in three bouffants by two bands. Ceinture of cachemire border. Skirt rather full, rich border reaching above the knee and fringed. Black velvet hat, right brim highly raised, ornamented with two nœuds and two white feathers. FIGURE THE THIRD-WITH BACK VIEW. WALKING DRESS-Redingotę of Gros d'orient. Corsage en cœur, with folds crossed near the waist, chemisette of tulle richly embroidered, full ruche and ruff, closed with buttons. The skirt is open in front with a biais deeply indented, the points upwards and much smaller towards the waist. The upper part of the sleeves very full in the arm with two bouffants, the lower one narrow, the lower part from the elbow to the wrist, is tight, with a broad tulle ruffle edged with lace. The hat is of green satin, lined with white plush, the shape open, the left brim wide, the ornaments of green satin trimmed with blond lace, and gauze ribbons, the ends deeply indented. FIRST HAT-WITH BACK VIEW. Satin hat lined with velvet, open shape, nœuds of satin ribbons figured in the middle, the ends with deep dents, the point edged with black blond. SECOND HAT-WITH BACK VIEW. A satin hat, with a single nœud of figured ribbon, and a sprig of fancy flowers. PLATE THE THIRD. FIGURE THE FIRST-WITH BACK VIEW. EVENING DRESS-A dress of blue chalis, wide sleeves of white crape. Skirt terminated with a deep hem. A silver chef above the knee and round the bust. Beret of crimson velvet trimmed with silver fringe. FIGURE THE SECOND. WALKING AND CARRIAGE DRESS-A cloak of printed kerseymere (striped) full falling velvet cape; under dress of gros de Naples. Velvet hat lined with plush. FIGURE THE FIRST-WITH BACK VIEW. CARRIAGE DRESS-The hat is of rose coloured satin, ornamented with ostrich feathers and gauze ribbons. Rich velvet mantle, with a half stand up collar, points arched and edged with silk fringe MORNING DRESS-A redingote of gros de Naples FIGURE THE THIRD---WITH BACK VIEW. PLATE THE FOURTH. FIGURE THE FIRST-WITH BACK VIEW. EVENING FULL DRESS.---A dress of white crape, richly embroidered in gold, short beret sleeves, edged with narrow blond. Corsage, drape en coeur, the back plain, with a fall of deep blond turning on the sleeve very full; a satin rouleau in the hem, white satin slip, the corsage edged with narrow blond, festooned. The hair is dressed in tufts of curls at the side of the face, and a large open net plait, en coque, from the back part of which is a noeud, with barbes, the whole surmounted with feathers, pinked in the middle, and gracefully curled; gold-mounted emerald ornament on the forehead; a boa folding round the neck and over the left shoulder. FIGURE THE SECOND. MORNING DRESS.---A dress of gros des Indes, with pelerine deep hem; trimmings black blond. FIGURE THE THIRD-WITH BACK VIEW. EVENING DRESS.---A dress of pale blue satin, a la royal, velvet beret, ornamented with ostrich feathers, one of them curling under the left brim. It is our object in the present instance, to give a brief account of these institutions previous to their degeneracy, as well as a slight mention of the Courts of Love, extracted from a foreign notice on the subject. The life of a Chevalier in the middle century, was divided into three important epochs. Until his seventh year, the care of his education was confided to females, who excited his emulation by recitals of the great exploits and daring deeds of counsels, he entered into the service of a chevalier, the primitive cavaliers. From their care, and in whose chateau he learned every thing connected with his future prospects: Faith-Love-Valour, were the ruling maxims they incessantly inculcated; and when it was observed, that the young page zealously fulfilled his duties, both to his knight and lady, and loved to engage in warlike pastimes, they endeavoured to strengthen him FIRST HAT-WITH BACK VIEW. A hat of gros de Naples, ornamented with in his determination, and to prepare him to beblond lace and pinked feathers. come one day, the defender of religion and of virtue. The ladies also entered fully into these principles, which they wished to instil into the mind of the young noviciate. The church and sex, being alike unarmed, needed a peculiar pro SECOND HAT---WITH BACK VIEW. Black velvet hat, contracted shape, richly ornamented with black blond lace and pink coloured ribbons-the ends indented. ON CHIVALRY AND THE COURTS OF LOVE. CHIVALRY, has in all former periods, been a subject of universally engrossing interest. The noble deeds of valour, founded originally upon the principles of disinterested protection towards the defenceless and oppressed, (particularly the fairsex,) and celebrated as they were in the most glowing colours, by the bards and minstrels of those ages, must necessarily have been admired, not only by contemporary but by subsequent generations. Hence the extremely romantic turn of all the old stories and adventures, as well as the superhuman courage and perfection of their heroes and heroines; and, though the same causes, namely, open and violent oppression on the part of the old barons, without any means of redress, are not at present permitted to exist; the interest in these relations must always continue great as long as there exists an admiration of heroic gallantry and patriotism—predominant virtues in all the actions and atchievements of the original cavaliers. B 6 THE MAGAZINE OF THE BEAU MONDE; The new chevalier swore that he would faithfully serve his prince and country-cherish his religion-succour widows and orphans-protect the oppressed, and make war upon miscreants; that he would respect the chastity of women, and celebrate in all places their beauty and virtue. This oath was also the knight's catechism. As chivalry was the pivot upon which his very existence turned, he regarded it as the most sacred vocation; and that every thing else ought to be subordinate to its religious discharge. Degradation thus seldom occurred. The interest which princes also took in chivalry, by obliging them to be the most distinguished in valour, and personal merit, as they were the most illustrious by birth-insured to this institution an honourable duration for many ages. tection, which the pious chevalier conceived it necessary to afford even at the risk of life. If hitherto the Greeks and Romans, had looked upon women, merely as objects of voluptuousness; the cavalier of this age less enslaved by his passions, and enlightened by the torch of a pure and sublime religion, considered them as the chef-d'œuvre of the creation, and as objects worthy of hoage; he conceived that to devote himself to their service was the noblest the most sublime duty. Constantly beholding models of chivalry, enjoying the society of squires, who had accompanied their masters in their expeditions, and hearing the martial songs of the Troubadours, his youthful courage was stimulated to noble actions. The page passed seven more years in that situation, which rendered him the companion and assistant of his master. In this capacity, he was bound to That public and military fête-the tournalook to the steed and armour of his chief, the de- ment, was also the most rigorous tribunal. They fence and safety of the castle, and also to attend only admitted him whose life was irreproachable, upon his noble mistress. He accompanied the and who had never violated the laws of chivalry. knight in tournaments and expeditions; to com- It was from the hands of the ladies they received bat under his eyes, and to improve himself by his the reward of their courage and address: thus example. Sometimes the distinction of superior the respect, added to admiration, which the comand inferior disappeared between the cavalier petitors testified towards the illustrious women, and his squire: they formed a sincere and mutual who judged, and remunerated them, was easily friendship, which, proved by dangers common to substituted for a far more enchanting sentiboth, and renewed by the remembrance of them, ment-that of love. The most noble triumph of were rendered so dear to each that they became valour, was that of pleasing beauty; and this seninseparable. At the age of twenty one, the squire timent devoted without doubt to the sex in gebecame entitled to knighthood, having first ren-neral, rather than to one in particular, gradually dered himself worthy of that honour by the perbecame an art, which the French have approformance of some noble deed. The canditate pre- priately designated by the name of Gallantry. pared himself by fasting, watching, and prayer: This art soon became the object of a widely dishe bathed and clothed himself in white, and reseminated theory, which, according to the spirit of ceived the Sacrament of Penance and the Eucha- the age, laid the foundation for those singular tririst. Having discharged his religious duties, the bunals, which took cognizance of all matters conneophyte entered the temple accompanied by a nected with Love. The grandeur of chivalry, sponsor, and presented his sword to the high originally simple, soon acquired foreign changes priest, who after pronouncing a benediction, placed and additions; and as it lost its true energy it on his neck. He knelt down at the feet of after the crusades, gradually inclined towards him or her that was to arm him, (for women ceremonious formality: producing a singular sometimes exercised these honourable offices), connection of the most striking contrasts. The and being invested with all the exterior honors chivalric muse, by degrees began to mingle of chivalry, rose and mounted a charger which with the real world, and infused into it some of was brought to him, and thus equipped, wheeled its illusions-so that Clio herself, seduced by round and bowed to the spectators, brilliant colours, has respected chivalry, and |
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