Imatges de pÓgina



contrary ways to each other. In general, blond lace, wherever employed, is so in profusion; it is the most fashionable ornament in request for the toilette; none can certainly be more becoming: large sized flowers, neuds of ribbons are heavy and harsh to the features; light and transparent blond lace, on the contrary, softens and enlivens the complexion, and cannot be too plentifully employed round the face.

Marabouts are now seldom or ever used on hats, but sometimes en berets or evening hats.

The crown or shape of a new sort of beret has an appendice, varying in length, more or less inclined towards this or that shoulder, and always ornamented with a tassel: this termination, en pointe, in imitation of the kolback, a military head dress.

Crape robes, with long sleeves, draped corsages, crossed or trimmed with plain tulle, forming a double mantilla and plain skirts are worn by many elegantes.

Above the hem, ten or twelve satin plaits or rouleaux.

FULL DRESS.-Watered silk of a vivid rose cofour, long sleeves, chantilly white blond lace flowered columns, the corsage deep cut, edged with three rows of blond lace (different designs); from the knee downwards, three blond lace volans the narrow, first; the deepest, last; six flat plaits on the hips, the body plain; ceinture of moire very wide, forming two large coques behind, and two short ends trimmed with blond lace, the lower part of the long sleeves ornamented points of moire trimmed with blond lace: these points meeting about halfway distancefrom thewrist to the elbow. Beret rose crape moire, with flat crown, one brim much larger on one than the other. For ornament-three ostrich feathers. EVENING FULL DRESS.---Toque, silver gau moire, crown rounded, similar to a turban; double brims, one extending; six ostrich feathers, toucan colour, two cantilla bandeaus, one forming a border round the toque, the other rather more forward, and detached from the former one a distance of a few inches, and a little inclined on one side, so as to leave an opening for a few curls. White satin dress, trimmed a little above the knee with toucan fur, in the shape of V's, DRESSES, for the most part, have no trimmings; laid contrary ways, (VA). Corsage draped homany have plain corsages, the sleeves progres-rizontally on the breast, with flat plaits on the sively diminishing towards the wrist, where they back; the epaulettes are made to fall; sleeves close without wristbands or gather. very short, plaited en evantail, (fan-like), short

A velvet biais, a fur band; but for morning skirt, silk stockings, silver embroidered on the dresses nothing but a very deep hem. clocks and instep.

Large pelerines buttoning in front, quite plain or trimmed with blond

A cachemire is often employed in the fashioning of a beret, and is inclined on the left, so as to leave the right side of the head uncovered. Two bracelets, clasped together, form a bandeau, to which sometimes is added two heron aigrettes.

Capotes, of a clear lilac satin, lined with black velvet, trimmed with black blond lace.

Others of a light blue or pale rose colour; the shape round, and ornamented with gauze ribbon. JEWELLERY.—Mantle clasps of Berlin iron are again becoming fashionable; some represent bear's paws; others an oak branch, gold or bronzed steel spectacle mountings the size of an ordinary pin.

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EVENING SILK DRESSES-Velvet lappels laid flat on a plain corsage, made to lap on the shoulders, and form a jockey with four points. This fashion is extremely becoming, particularly if in light colours, the points edged with white blond lace, long sleeves of white blond lace. If a velvet dress, the points are edged with black blond lace.namented, descending from the ceinture, open Satin dresses are worn either as morning or and urite with the above-mentioned one; evening robes. corsage open, and trimmed on each side with

Conspicuous amongst the most becoming winter dresses, we must not omit that, lately worn by Madame ***. Silk, trimmed with black velvet; the flowers a little below the knee composed of a small velvet rouleau, serpentant all round the skirt, small leaves supported by light stems, diverging from each side, small buds between each leaf; in front, two other rouleaus, equally or


two small velvet rouleaus; the chemisette same nishing as far as the waist only, and from materials as the corsage, plaited horizontally, thence, till it joins the skirt band, is of the four gold diamonds, lozenge-shaped, for buttons. same dimensions. The sleeves of this corsage had but one bouffant, On the collar and lappels of another, a gold covered with velvet, pinked small dents; the embroidery in imitation of a necklace, termicollar of velvet.

nating in front at the opening of the corsage, Some robes are embroidered with floss silk, At a late ball, many of the dresses were of but velvet and fur trimmings are in greater tulle, the ship of satin. vogue.

One charming costume was composed of white Another, of the same description, had, as gauze, sprinkled with small bouquets, the flowers trimmings, very small velvet rouleaus, crossed, of which were white pearls, the leaves green

silk so as to form small interwoven squares.

embroidery. A torsade of white pearls and green In the spaces, left by white marguerites in the silk cord, marked the upper part of the bem. trimmings of a light blue robe, were some elon- The corsage drapery cross-ways, trimmed with gated, but small houffans.

same torsade. One robe, whose only ornaments were two Another robe, remarkably fashionable, is of a velvet rouleaus descending from behind the collar light green, having but three pearl bouquets for of the corsage to a little above the knee, and ornament, placed on the front of the skirt, at another rouleau from below the knee, bent and the height of the knee. A bouquet of pearls for united with the ends of the first rouleaus so as the corsage, under a ceinture of white pearls to imitate the point.

with long ends, descending in torsades on the 9 Another, somewhat similar to the above, had a front of the robe. branch garnished with green leaves, twining and The most admired for simplicity, are orape following the rouleaus.

robes couleur immortelle, with a sattin cord only The latest fashions of corsages, are those with above the hem; corsage, double mantilla blond velvet cut into different designs, namely, those lace, blond lace sabots for the lower part of the whose collar and front, though not open, had two sleeves. velvet rouleaus garnished with small leaves of the Materials. The most elegant for evening same materials; but each of a different green, so dresses, are gauzes called cordellieres, also emarranged as not to be glaring to the eye, and so broidered crapes; the designs are arranged in disposed, as to mark or imitate the opening. the newest and most graceful style.

Another, a velvet corsage, has the back in shape of a collar opened in the middle, and widening towards the edges; the front with

DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES lappels a schal; the whole trimmed with narrow blond lace.

PLATE THE FIRST. The trimming of the skirt composei of a single velvet rouleau, to which is added a double rov

FIGURE THE FIRST-WITH BACK VIEW. of embroidered blond lace, pointed scollops.

Walking DRESS.–A dress of light green Another trimming, remarkable for its sim-gros de Naples, with lappels of the same maplicity, is a wide band of fur at the lower part terials, falling over the sleeves, with two points, of the skirt, two rouleaus of fur for the collar, slightly crossed in front, and continued behind, the opening of the corsage is crossed at the rounded en polerine ; the back plain, full-bodied waist, and progressively widening, until it meets muslin chemisette, edged with embroidery, a at the band at the bottom of the skirt, nearly dents de loup ceinture, richly embroidered ; imitating the boa, with this difference, that at gigot sleeves, plain skirt, very full on the hips, the back of the corsage, in order to form a finished with a deep hem; satin hat, open collar, the rouleau is wider in the middle, dimi-shape, slightly closing towards the ears, the



right brim elevated, elegantly trimmed with of the same colour, a second collar full and deeply blond, and two sprigs of fancy flowers; neck-indented and fringed as the one above; the colour lace and bracelets, rubies plainly set in gold. is pense lined with white satin. FIGURE THE SECOND.

FIGURE THE SECOND. DINNER Dress.---Deep ruby-coloured satin ;

EVENING DRESS-A rich Cachemire Redingote, corsage plain, high closed in front, by four plain corsage uni, cut half high with a fringed gold buttons; velvet lappels of the same co- pelerine, covering the shoulders, wide sleeves dilour, laid flat on the corsage, jockey epaulettes, vided in three bouffants by two bands. Ceinture velvet, same colour, cut in points, and hemmed of cachemire border. Skirt rather full, rich borwith black blond. Sleeves wide, narrowing pro- der reaching above the knee and fringed. Black gressively, till closing round the waist, without velvet hat, right brim highly raised, ornamented gathers, and edged with black blond. Skirt with two næuds and two white feathers. very full, terminated with a velvet biais, above

FIGURE THE THIRD-WITH BACK VIEW. which is a deep black blond. Bracelets, a l'es- WALKING DRESS-Redingote of Gros d'orient. clave. The cap of tulle, richly edged with Corsage en caur, with folds crossed near the blond, elegantly disposed en coquilles, round the waist, chemisette of tulle richly embroidered, full face; a single noeud of ribbon, the ends deeply ruche and ruff, closed with buttons. The skirt is indented, small sprigs of flowers, tastefully ar- open in front with a biais deeply indented, the ranged, so as to support the blond.

points upwards and much smaller towards the FIGURE THE THIRD-WITH BACK VIEW. waist. The upper part of the sleeves very full in EVENING DRESS ---A dress of white gauze, the arm with two bouffants, the lower one narplain corsage, edged with narrow blond lace

row, the lower part from the elbow to the wrist, round the bust, pink-coloured lappels of gros tight, with a broad tulle ruffle edged with lace. des Indes, deeply dented, large noeuds of the The hat is of green satin, lined with white plush, same materials, nearly covering the short beret the shape open, the left brim wide, the ornaments sleeves, ceinture of wide pink ribbon, fringed. of green satin trimmed with blond lace, and gauze Skirt, deep hem, surmounted by three pink satin ribbons, the ends deeply indented. rouleaus, terminated on the left with a noeud of

FIRST HAT-WITH BACK VIEW. satin and small bouquet. Scarf to correspond. Satin hat lined with velvet, open shape, næuds Necklace, three rows of pearls. Coiffure com- of satin ribbons figured in the middle, the ends posed of two coques, and two plaited tresses, with deep dents, the point edged with black blond. with rows of pearls, tastefully entwined round

SECOND HAT_WITH BACK VIEW. the plaits, and a bouquet.

A satin hat, with a single næud of figured ribFIRST CAP-WITH BACK VIEW.

bon, and a sprig of fancy flowers. A cap of embroidered tulle, ornamented with

PLATE THE THIRD. nouds of gauze, figured on each edge; the ends


Evening Dress—A dress of blue chalis, wide SECOND CAP-WITH BACK VIEW.

sleeves of white crape. Skirt terminated with a Plain tulle cap, elegantly ornamented with deep hem. A silver chef above the knee and round blond lace and gauze ribbons, figured in the mid- the bust. Beret of crimson velvet trimmed with dle, and flowers tastefully disposed.

silver fringe.



printed kerseymere (striped) full falling velvet CARRIAGE DRESS—The hat is of rose coloured

cape ; under dress of gros de Naples. Velvet hat satin, ornamented with ostrich feathers and gauze lined with plush. ribbons. Rich velvet mantle, with a half stand

FIGURE THE THIRD-.- WITH BACK VIEW. up collar, points arched and edged with silk fringe Morning Dress—A redingote of gros de Naples

velvet noeuds in front, velvet collar crossed in front, wide sleeves, diminishing from the elbow to

ON. CHIVALRY AND THE COURTS OF LOVE. the wrist, to which it sits close with buttons. Head-dress a la fanchon.

Chivalry, has in all former periods, been a

subject of universally engrossing interest. The FIRST HAT---WITH BACK VIEW.

noble deeds of valour, founded originally upon the Light blue satin hat richly ornamented with principles of disinterested protection towards the blond lace and flowers, a row of three dented defenceless and oppressed, (particularly the fairleaves from the right side, extending to nearly the sex,) and celebrated as they were in the most glowmiddle of the brim.

ing colours, by the bards and minstrels of those SECOND HAT_WITH BACK VIEW.

ages, must necessarily have been admired, not A hat of lilac velvet, open shape, the orna

only by contemporary but by subsequent gene

rations. ments of velvet, satin ribbon, and plumeau fea

Hence the extremely romantic turn of

all the old stories and adventures, as well as the thers, a large noeud under the brim, the ends indented.

superhuman courage and perfection of their he

roes and heroines; and, though the same causes, PLATE THE FOURTH.

namely, open and violent oppression on the part FIGURE THE FIRST-WITH BACK VIEW. of the old barons, without any means of redress, EVENING FULL DRESS.---Adress of white are not at present permitted to exist; the interest crape, richly embroidered in gold, short beret in these relations must always continue great as long sleeves, edged with narrow blond. Corsage, drape as there exists an admiration of heroic gallantry en coeur, the back plain, with a fall of deep and patriotism-predominant virtues in all the blond turning on the sleeve very full; a satin actions and atchievements of the original cavaliers. rouleau in the hem, white satin slip, the corsage It is our object in the present instance, to give edged with narrow blond, festooned. The hair a brief account of these institutions previous to is dressed in tufts of curls at the side of the their degeneracy, as well as a slight mention of face, and a large open net plait, en coque, from the Courts of Love, extracted from a foreign nothe back part of which is a noeud, with barbes, tice on the subject. the whole surmounted with feathers, pinked in

The life of a Chevalier in the middle century, the middle, and gracefully curled; gold-mounted was divided into three important epochs. Until emerald ornament on the forehead ; a boa folding his seventh year, the care of his education was conround the neck and over the left shoulder.

fided to females, who excited his emulation by FIGURE THE SECOND.

recitals of the great exploits and daring deeds of Morning Dress.---A dress of gros des Indes, counsels, he entered into the service of a chevalier,

the primitive cavaliers. From their care, and with pelerine deep hem; trimmings black blond.

in whose chateau he learned every thing connected FIGURE THE THIRD-WITH BACK VIEW. with his future prospects : Faith-Love-VaEVENING Dress.---A dress of pale blue satin, lour, were the ruling maxims they incessantly a la royal, velvet beret, ornamented with ostrich inculcated; and when it was observed, that the feathers, one of them curling under the left young page zealously fulfilled his duties, both to brim.

his knight and lady, and loved to engage in warFIRST HAT_WITH BACK VIEW.

like pastimes, they endeavoured to strengthen him A hat of gros de Naples, ornamented with in his determination, and to prepare him to beblond lace and pinked feathers.

come one day, the defender of religion and of SECOND HAT---WITH BACK VIEW.

virtue. The ladies also entered fully into these Black velyet hat, contracted shape, richly or principles, which they wished to instil into the namented with black blond lace and pink-co

mind of the young noviciate. The church and loured ribbons-the ends indented.

sex, being alike unarmed, needed a peculiar pro




tection, which the pious chevalier conceived it The new chevalier swore that he would faithnecessary to afford even at the risk of life. If hi- fully serve his prince and country-cherish his therto the Greeks and Romans, had looked upon religion-succour widows and orphans-protect women, merely as objects of voluptuousness; the the oppressed, and make war upon miscreants ; cavalier of this age less ensiaved by his passions, that he would respect the chastity of women, and enlightened by the torch of a pure and sub- and celebrate in all places their beauty and lime religion, considered them as the chef-d'æu- virtue. This oath was also the knight's catevre of the creation, and as objects worthy of ho- chisın.

orthy of ho-chism. As chivalry was the pivot upon which age; he conceived that to devote himself to their his very existence turned, he regarded it as the service was the noblest the most sublime most sacred vocation; and that every thing else duty. Constantly beholding models of chivalry, ought to be subordinate to its religious disenjoying the society of squires, who had accompa- charge. Degradation thus seldom occurred. The nied their masters in their expeditions, and hearing interest which princes also took in chivalry, by the martial songs of the Troubadours, his youthful obliging them to be the most distinguished in courage was stimulated to noble actions. The valour, and personal merit, as they were the most page passed seven more years in that situation, illustrious by birth-insured to this institution which rendered him the companion and assistant

an honourable duration for many ages. of his master. In this capacity, he was bound to That public and military fête—the tournalook to the steed and armour of his chief, the de- ment, was also the most rigorous tribunal. They fence and safety of the castle, and also to attend only admitted him whose life was irreproachable, upon his noble mistress. He accompanied the and who had never violated the laws of chivalry. knight in tournaments and expeditions; to com- It was from the hands of the ladies they received bat under his eyes, and to improve himself by his the reward of their courage and address: thus example. Sometimes the distinction of superior the respect, added to admiration, which the comand inferior disappeared between the cavalier petitors testified towards the illustrious women, and his squire : they formed a sincere and mutual who judged, and remunerated them, was easily friendship, which, proved by dangers coinmon to substituted for a far more enchanting sentiboth, and renewed by the remembrance of them, ment—that of love. The most noble triumph of were rendered so dear to each that they became valour, was that of pleasing beauty; and this seninseparable. At the age of twenty one, the squire timent devoted without doubt to the sex in gehecame entitled to knighthood, having first ren- peral, rather than to one in particular, gradually dered himself worthy of that honour by the per- became an art, which the French have approformance of some noble deed. The canditate pre-priately designated by the name of—Gallantry. pared himself by fasting, watching, and prayer: This art soon became the object of a widely dishe bathed and clothed himself in white, and re- seminated theory, which, according to the spirit of ceived the Sacrament of Penance and the Eucha- the age, laid the foundation for those singular tririst. Having discharged his religious duties, the bunals, which took cognizance of all matters conneophyte entered the temple accompanied by a

nected with Love. The grandeur of chivalry, sponsor, and presented his sword to the high originally simple, soon acquired foreign changes priest, who after pronouncing a benediction, placed and additions; and as it lost its true energy it on his neck. He knelt down at the feet of after the crusades, gradually inclined towards him or her that was to arm hím, . (for women

ceremonious formality: producing a singular sometimes exercised these honourable offices), connection of the most striking contrasts. The and being invested with all the exterior honors chivalric muse, by degrees began to mingle of chivalry, rose and mounted a charger which with the real world, and infused into it some of was brought to him, and thus equipped, wheeled its illusions—so that Clio herself, seduced by round and bowed to the spectators,

brilliant colours, has respected chivalry, and

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