It is certain that the foulard will be one of the great favourites of the new season; satins, poult-de-soies, and taffetas, have also been selected: but, above all these for the summer toilette, is the broché satin, which is really one of the most magnificent materials ever manufactured. It consists of satin of a plain ground, embroidered in flowers of various pretty designs and colours. The Parisian ladies have given the preference to the short dress of broché satin. At the sea-side, especially, they will not wear any but the short robe.

and

It is only in the drawing-room that the long dress is worn, on this occasion it is rigorously adopted; except for young ladies of fifteen or sixteen, who can, of course, wear the short costume. Among the robes newly appeared, one which attracted my notice was an under-skirt of blue foulard, ornamented at regular distances by large palm leaves of cashmere embroidered with silk of all shades on a ground of red and white. The second is in moss colour poil de chèvre, enriched by palm leaves on a blue ground: each breadth, cut in a manner so as to form a point, confines one of these palm leaves.

The bodice may be composed of two forms, at the option of the wearer. For the first I will point out a flat high under-bodice, made in foulard, bouillonnés separated by a band of cashmere, executed on a poppy-red or blue ground. Over all we add a corslet to match with the blonde petticoat, and cut at the top in five small points with palm leaf ornaments in the middle; the bottom is likewise in several small points, always accompanied by the same palm leaf ornaments. Three blue silk buttons terminate each point.

The sleeves are bouillonné, like the under-bodice. In the top a jockey, with three of the same ornaments; towards the bottom, trimming to match with the jockey.

The second kind of bodice, which is adopted with the skirts

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which I have just described, is composed of a very low corslet, plaited in the Greek style, and trimmed at the top by an entre-deux, covered with cashmere embroidery; next, the under-bodice will be blue, high, and of the flat shape, ornamented by palm leaves on the seams of the shoulders. Only as complement, training sleeves, in moss poil de chèvre, attached at the top by a double palm leaf; plain blue under-sleeves.

Another toilette, also short, is composed of a first skirt of black taffeta, trimmed by five crimson taffeta bias pieces, ornamented at the top by jet beads.

The second skirt is also in black, with the seams cut in bias, and connected by lace trimming, set on a transparent of white taffeta, Black corslet, having all the seams marked by a black entre-deux. with a white edging; white under-bodice of the canezou kind, of white foulard covered by an entre-deux of black lace, with a crimson velvet strip sewn between each. Sleeves of white foulard, like the bodice, with the same velvet and entre-deux trimmings.

Towards the top a jockey hanging from the corslet, and cut in five points encircled by lace, and lined with white.

A very original toilette, the Egyptian, as it is named, is composed of a mauve under-skirt, ornamented by a point lace embroidery, beaded with jet, and farther ornamented with daisies of white silk; the second skirt is in woollen and silk tissue, of grey and black; the breadth of the front, and that of the back, are cut en tablier (square at the bottom) biased on the sides and edged by guipure galloons, beaded with jet. On the sides there are three breadths cut in points, and each of them is rounded into oval denticulations. The bodice is grey, ornamented by slashes on the sleeves, and lined with crimson foulard, which covers the slashes. Under sleeves of crimson foulard.

A robe in fancy woollen and silk tissue. Bodice of a round pattern. Tight sleeves. Feodora mantle. This mantle is in faye, with the sleeves cut in sharp denticulations, surmounted by small bias pieces of satin, and terminated by two beautiful pear-drop fringes. Bonnet of rose tulle, of the square form veiled by English point lace, and edged by pear-drop fringe with pearls.

Robe of poult-de-soie. Bodice of poult-de-soie, and taffeta. Double sleeves; the first, which fits tight to the arms, is in taffeta, the second is in poult-de-soie, and is formed in the large sleeves of the middle ages. Sylvia mantle of a round pattern in faye, cut at the bottom on the sides in large square notches, ornamented by Chantilly lace. This model has a kind of piece which is prolonged behind in a train. Bonnet of Belgian straw; tulle strings.

Robe of foulard of a very plain tint, ornamented on the petticoat by seven long ribbons of a very strong colour, which fall

from the bodice. Rosa mantle executed in faye, ornamented by lace towards the bottom and traversed by bias ribbons strewn with pearls. On the front, large buttons of black satin. Tight sleeves. Lozenge-shaped bonnet of rice straw ornamented by a fringe of pearls.

Robe of taffeta with Pekin stripes. Bodice with basque. Tight sleeves. Magalone confection in faye, cut at the bottom in a peplum, and trimmed by bias pieces covered by large pearl beads. All round, a fringe of pear-drop pearls and silk. Sleeves of the Pagoda cut, very large at the bottom, ornamented with pearl biases. Bonnet of horse hair of the Empire form, edged by a cordon of ivy leaves. Strings of taffeta.

For a young lady. Robe composed of an under skirt of taffeta. Bodice of taffeta; sleeves of taffeta. Hungarian mantle of black satin, ornamented on the shoulders by scarves of black lace. On these straps stars cut in black satin. A row of thick pearls is set at the bottom, at the top of a pear-drop fringe. Russian toque hat in black English straw, trimmed by a band of white feathers.

Robe having a double skirt of gros grain taffeta. Bodice of a round form; double sleeves of the Pagoda style. Malvina confection, cut at the bottom rather en cloche and with sharp denticulations; mandarine sleeves. This model is ornamented by two rows of galloons, one of which is strewn with jet buttons and the other with pearls. Bonnet of tulle bouillonné, ornamented by rose and white pinks. Strings of tulle.

A drawing-room toilette is in blue and white striped taffeta for the first skirt. The second is in plain foulard, cut in an Empire tunique, short in front, with a train behind. This second skirt is flat in front and is full of pleats behind. On the hips it falls in three cross pleats. With this skirt a high bodice, with stripes and corslet plaited à l'antique towards the top, and edged with white taffeta, with double sleeves, of which the first is striped ; the second is the Medicis, of plain blue, edged by taffeta biases.

Another dress, only for the drawing-room, is in grey foulard. The skirt is cut in one piece with the bodice. At the bottom of this petticoat large biases of rose taffeta strewn with jet beads. At the distance where the second skirt falls a similar bias is set. This bias, likewise embroidered with black beads, traces on the sides an undulation forming the plaits. Bodice cut so as to form on the sides two long flaps, made in the same piece with the small sides of the back and front.

The new Spring bonnets are making a great show, most of them being composed with greatest skill and dexterity. Thus, the Breton model, but lately appeared, will obtain a great success, it being really a most magnificent thing.

We may imagine a real Bretonne cap, or, rather, a fanchon set on the top of the head, and each side of which is turned up, forming a reverse, under which are fastened strings of straw-colour ribbon. This ribbon by itself is sufficient, being crossed under the chignon to retain this bonnet, on the summit of which a knot of strawcolour ribbon is adjusted.

This model is in rice straw, and on all the edges, as well as on the ribbons, a strip of black velvet is set. On one of the sides, to complete the ornament of the Breton bonnet, a tuft of wild flowers.

I have seen several charming bonnets in one of the large houses of this city, which are composed of nothing but flowers and ribbon. On a model with a diadem reverse, in straw-colour tulle, a band of red coral fruits is set. Strings of white tulle, edged with blonde, with small poppy velvet at the top. A rose crape rosette in the form of a lozenge set in bias on the top, so that it will fall in a Stuart point on the front.

A satin ribbon, enrolled with white tulle in the form of a coronet, tied on the bonnet by a tuft of roses. Rose strings tied behind.

A fanchon model, in blue bouillonné crape, trimmed all round 8 by ears of corn turning behind. Blue strings strewn with ears of corn, and embroidered with straw.

Summer ball toilettes.-Robe of white satin, ornamented at the bottom by a large bias of green satin. Corslet of green satin. Under-bodice of white satin. Head-dress composed of a cordon of foliage; Louis XV. fan. Handkerchief trimmed with English point lace. Sash of tulle.

Robe composed of an under-skirt in white taffeta, veiled by a skirt of tulle. Second skirt in white gauze. Corslet cut square at the top, with a round form. Training sleeves. Under-bodice of white taffeta. Head-dress, ornamented with dead leaves, mingled with grapes of jet.

Robe of grey satin, veiled with bouillonné tulle of the same colour; set off by a cordon of roses. Around the bodice at the top a belt of rose and white tulle. Scarf of Chantilly lace. Head dress ornamented by roses and pearls.

Spring has come at last, and I had hoped that at its approach black toilettes would be left off; that rose, light green, the lilac, and primrose, would prevail. But it is nothing of the sort. Black and always black, even for most of our prettiest ball toilettes.

The small crinoliue still continues, and will continue to be worn through the season.

Town toilette.-Robe of Indian foulard, composed of a first skirt, trimmed in bias, with taffeta of a darker shade. Second skirt having each breadth rounded at the bottom. Bodice with a round form, with sash edged with pearls. Sleeves tight from the top, ornamented by a passementerie. Mantle to match with the robe. Long sleeves of the "Medicis" pattern. Bonnet of ricestraw, ornamented with a cordon of foliage in the front. Strings of white taffeta.

Country indoor toilette.-Robe of blue silk gauze, ornamented at the edge of the bottom of the skirt by a bias of plain taffeta, trimmed with mother-of-pearl beads. Spencer bodice, in velvet or gros-grain taffeta. Under-bodice of muslin, pointed with a broidery on the sleeves only; sash with a pearled rosette. Head-dress orna-│ mented by a band of blue velvet.

Children's Spring toilettes.-Little boy of eight years.- Costume of light cloth, consisting of short trousers, and a blouse attached on the side; belt to match. Sailor hat in straw, ornamented by a black velvet ribbon, with long ends.

Little girl of eight years.-Robe of black striped taffeta. Figaro bodice, cut in denticulations all round. Tight sleeves. As a mantle, a basquine of faille, fitting tight to the waist, ornamented on all the sides by a bias of the same material, strewn with jet beads.

For a child of two years.-Toilette composed of a robe of lawn or piqué. Bodice without sleeves, edged by an entre-deux of guipure. Guimpe, with Swiss plaits. Sash of wide poppy-coloured ribbon.

For a little girl of six years.-Toilette of white foulard; forming a nearly flat skirt, trimmed at the bottom by a daisy plait of blue foulard. White corslet. Tight sleeves. Sailor hat of rice straw, encircled by a gauze veil.

For a little boy of nine years.-Costume of light grey cloth, consisting of short trousers, with the side seams in relief, with a gilet gallooned, and a nearly straight coat. Felt hat, ornamented by velvet.

Toilette for a communicant.-Short first skirt. Second skirt cut in bias; cut at the bottom in sharp denticulations on each breadth. High bodice. Tight sleeves. Muslin sash. Necklet

DESCRIPTION OF ENGRAVINGS.

PLATE I.-Fig. 1.-Walking dress and jacket of cuir coloured poult-de-soie, trimmed with black bead gimp and fringe. Sash of broad black ribbon, fastened behind; hat to correspond.

Fig. 2.-Morning dress of striped delaine, trimmed with bands of black velvet, on which are placed steel ornaments. Waistband to match.

Fig. 3.-Robe of figured muslin, with a plaited trimming round the edge. Jacket of black silk, trimmed with braid ornaments and silk drops. Cap of white lace, trimmed with narrow ribbon.

PLATES II. AND III.-Fig. 1.-New Promenade Toilette.- Rich French grey poult-de-soie, elaborately trimmed from the centre of the back in the form of sashes made from the same material as the robe, and trimmed with a piping of rich satin in colour to match, having at each end a silk fringe; at the bottom of the skirt is a deep flounce: the bodice is trimmed to correspond.

Fig. 2.-New Promenade Costume of rich black gros-grain, the upper skirt trimmed round the bottom with satin in the shape of leaves. The jacket is of a very short loose shape, and is trimmed to match the skirt, the under-skirt or petticoat is of coloured gros-grain, thickly pleated round the edge.

Fig. 3.-Promenade Costume.-Paletot of rich black gros-grain, richly ornamented with guipure lace, and beaded with silk seams, and jet drops on pendants, the sleeves also ornamented in the same manner, forming a most elegantly and gracefully fitting garment. The robe is of superb broché silk, in the centre of each breadth a bouquet of flowers in brilliant colours.

Fig. 4.-Promenade Costume.-Skirt of black poult-de-soie; the under-skirt or petticoat quite plain, and short; the upper skirt trimmed with loops of the same material, edged or piped with a coloured silk or satin. The jacket of short loose shape, trimmed to correspond.

Fig. 5.-Evening Costume.-Robe of poult-de-soie, trimmed with a band of satin from the waist, passing down the side and round the back, and forming a most graceful tunic. The front of the robe at the bottom of the skirt is trimmed with satin in the shape of leaves, and the bodice is trimmed to correspond.

Figs. 1, 2, and 3 are entirely new and original designs, which have been exhibited in the Grande Exposition Universelle, Paris, by Messrs. Grant and Gask, of Oxford Street.

PLATE IV.-Fig. 1.-Dress Robe of rich striped gros-grain, made in four different widths, with stripes in different shades; very effective and novel, and exhibited in the Paris Exposition.

Fig. 2.-Mourning Robe.-Elegant robe of poult-de-soie, trimmed round the bottom with a passementerie of satin, &c., also from waist, forming a peplum of same. The bodice is trimmed to correspond.

These new and original designs in the art of dressmaking are from the saloons of Messrs. Grant and Gask, of Oxford and Wells Streets, by whom they have been exhibited in the Grande Exposition at Paris.

PLATE V.-Bonnet No. 1 (from Maison Garnier, Paris).— Empire shape, in black tulle, embroidered cut jet, guirlande on the front, composed of jet leaves, mounted on gold stems, and jet

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mulberries pendants, fastened at the side with a blue (dark) "demoiselle."

Bonnet No. 2 (from Maison Golbert, Paris).-Composed entirely of white satin beads. Barbe of tulle, embroidered crystal ornaments, bronze leaves, and barley aigrettes.

Bonnet No. 3 (from Maison Golbert, Paris).-Spanish bonnet, in black tulle, embroidered coral, the drooping bands hook underneath the chignon when the bonnet is on, giving the effect of a double band of coral round the head.

Bonnet No. 4.-Composed of violet nattes, two of which fall behind; a bouquet of satin lilies-of-the-valley on the front of the bonnet.

No. 5.-A muslin pelerine, without seam, trimmed Cluny lace and ribbon.

Bonnet No. 6 (from Rapp et Hofele, Place de la Paix, Paris).In white chip, trimmed with satin lilies-of-the-valley.

1

THE EFFECT OF MARRIAGE.-Doubtless you have remarked, with satisfaction, how the little oddities of men who marry rather late in life are pruned away speedily after their marriage. You have found a man, who used to be shabbily and carelessly dressed, with a huge shirt-collar frayed at the edges, and a glaring yellow silk pocket handkerchief, broken of these things, and become a pattern of neatness. You have seen a man, whose hair and whiskers were ridiculously cut, speedily become like a human being. You have seen a clergyman, who wore a long beard, in a little while appear without one. You have seen a man who used to sing ridiculous sentimental songs, leave them off. A wife is the grand wielder of the moral pruning-knife. Whenever you find a man, whom you know little about, oddly dressed, or talking ridiculously, or exhibiting any eccentricity of manner, you may be tolerably sure that he is not a married man. For the little corners are rounded off, the little shoots are pruned away in married men. Wives generally have more sense than their husbands, especially when the husbands are clever men. The wife's advices are like the ballast that keeps the ship steady. They are like the wholesome, though painful, shears, nipping off little growths of self-conceit and folly.