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thy,—the earnest eyes, the clear brow, the trasts might be strange and dangerous. sonorous voice. One thinks of him, and No, no, Padre Lluc! keep these unknown hopes that he is satisfied, -- that cruel spells from your heart,— let the forbidden longing and more cruel doubt shall never books alone. Instead of the Confessions spring up in that capacious heart, divor- of Jean Jacques, read the Confessions of cing his affections and convictions from St. Augustine, – read the new book, in the system to which his life is irrevoca- three volumes, on the Immaculate Conbly wedded. No, keep still, Padre Lluc! ception, which you show me with such think ever as you think now, lest the ardor, telling me that Can Grande, which, faith that seems a fortress should prove in the vernacular, is Parker, has spoken a prison, the mother a step-dame, - lest of it with respect. Beyond the Fathers the high, chivalrous spirit, incapable of you must not get, for you have vowed to a safe desertion, should immolate truth be a child all your life. Those clear eyes or itself on the altar of consistency. of yours are never to look up into the
Between those two advocates of Cath- face of the Eternal Father; the showOlicity, Hulia Protestante walks slowly box of the Church must content them, through the halls of the University. She with Mary and the saints seen through sees first a Cabinet of Natural History, its dusty glass, — the august figure of the including minerals, shells, fossils, and in- Son, who sometimes reproved his mother, sects, all well-arranged, and constituting a crowded quite out of sight behind the very respectable beginning. Padre Lluc woman, whom it is so much easier to dress says some good words on the importance up and exhibit. What is this other book of scientific education. Padre Doyaguez which Parker has read? Padre Doyalaughs at the ladies' hoops, which he calls guez says, “ Hulia, if you read this, you Malakoffs, as they crowd through the must become a Catholic.” Padre Lluc doorways and among the glass cases ; says,
“ If Parker has read this book, I he repeats occasionally, “ Hulia Protes- cannot conceive that he is not a Cathotante?” in a tone of mock astonishment, lic.” The quick Doyaguez then remarks, and receives for answer, “Si, Hulia Pro- “ Parker is going to Rome to join the testante." Then comes a very creditable Romish Church.” Padre Lluc rejoins, array of scientific apparatus, — not of the “ They say so.” Hulia Protestante is order employed by the judges of Galileo, inclined to cry out, “ The day that Par- electric and galvanic batteries, an or- ker becomes a Catholic, I, too, will berery, and many things beside. The li- come one”; but, remembering the rashbrary interests us more, with some luxu- ness of vows and the fallibility of men, rious classics, a superb Dante, and a pris- she does not adopt that form of expresson-cage of forbidden works, of which Pa- ing Never. Parker might, if it pleased dre Lluc certainly has the key. Among God, become a Catholic, and then the these were fine editions of Rousseau and world would have two Popes instead of Voltaire, which appeared to be intended for use; and we could imagine a solitary We leave at last the disputed ground student, dark-eyed and pale, exploring of the library and ascend to the observatheir depths at midnight with a stolen tory, which commands a fine view of the candle, and endeavoring, with self-tor- city, and a good sweep of the heavens for ment, to reconcile the intolerance of his the telescope, in which Padre Lluc seemdoctrine with the charities of his heart. ed especially to delight. The observatoWe imagine such a one lost in the phi- ry is commodious, and is chiefly directlosophy and sentiment of the “ Nouvelle ed by an attenuated young priest, with Héloise," and suddenly summoned by a keen eye and hectic cheek; another the convent-bell to the droning of the was occupied in working out mathematiMass, the mockery of Holy Water, the cal tables ;– for these Fathers observe fable of the Real Presence. Such con- the stars, and are in scientific correVOL. iv.
spondence with astronomers in Europe. permission is given, he bounds like a This circumstance gave us real pleasure young roe to her arms, shy and tender, on their account, — for science, in all its his English blood showing through his degrees, is a positive good, and a mental Spanish skin,- for he is a child of mixed tonic of the first importance. Earnestly We are all pleased and touched, did we, in thought, commend it to those and Padre Lluc presently brings us a dawearied minds which have undergone guerreotype, and says, “It is my moththe dialectic dislocations, the denaturali- er.” To us it is an indifferent portrait of zations of truth and of thought, which en- an elderly Spanish woman, - but to him, able rational men to become first Catho- how much! With kindest mutual regard lics and then Jesuits. For let there be we take leave, -- a little surprised, perno illusions about strength of mind, and haps, to see that Jesuit priests have mothso on,--this is effected by means of a ers, and remember them. vast machinery. As, in the old story, the calves were put in at one end of the cylinder and taken out leather breeches
SAN ANTONIO DE LOS BAÑOS. at the other, or as glass is cut and wood carved, so does the raw human material,
“ Far from my thoughts, vain world, begone!” put into the machine of the Catholic HOWEVER enchanting Havana may Church, become fashioned according to prove, when seen through the moonlight the will of those who guide it. Hulia of memory, it seems as good a place to Protestante ! you have a free step and a go away from as any other, after a stifling clear head; but once go into the machine, night in a net, the wooden shutters left and you will come out carved and emboss- open in the remote hope of air, and aded according to the old traditional pat- mitting the music of a whole opera-troupe tern,- you as well as another. Where the of dogs, including bass, tenor, soprano, material is hard, they put on more pow
and chorus. Instead of bouquets, you er, - where it is soft, more care ; where- throw stones, if you are so fortunate as to fore I caution you here, as I would in a have them,-if not, boot-jacks, oranges, mill at Lowell or Lawrence,– Don't med- your only umbrella. You are last seen dle with the shafts, — don't go too near the thrusting frantic hands and feet through wheel, - in short, keep clear of the ma- the iron bars, your wife holding you back chinery. And Hulia does so; for, at the by the flannel night-gown which you will last attack of Padre Doyaguez, she sud- persist in wearing in this doubtful clidenly turns upon him and says, “Sir, mate. At last it is over, — the fifth act you are a Doctrinary and a Propagan- ends with a howl which makes you hope dist.” And the good Father suffers her that some one of the performers has come to depart in peace. But first there is the to grief. But, alas! it is only a stage déchapel to be seen, with its tawdry and nouement, whose hero will die again evpoor ornamentation, -- and the dormito- ery night while the season lasts. You ries of the scholars, with long double rows fall asleep, but the welcome cordial has of beds and mosquito-nettings. There are scarcely been tasted when you are aroustwo of these, and each of them has at one ed by a knock at the door. It is the end a raised platform, with curtains and night-porter, who wakes you at five by a bed, where rests and watches the shep- appointment, that you may enjoy your herd of the little sheep. Lastly, we have early coffee, tumble into a hired volante, a view of the whole flock, assembled in and reach, half dead with sleep, the statheir play-ground, and one of them, look- tion in time for the train that goes to San ing up, sees his mother, who has kindly Antonio. accompanied our visit to the institution. Now, whether you are a partisan of Across the distance that separates us, we early rising or not, you must allow that see his blue eyes brighten, and, as soon as sunrise and the hour after is the golden time of the day in Cuba. So this hour went some way towards accounting for of starting, -six o'clock, --so distasteful the deficiency complained of? wants of in our latitudes, is a matter of course in breakfast, wants of dinner, wants of sometropical climates. Arriving at the station, thing good for tea, wants of towels, wants you encounter new tribulations in the of candles, wants of ice, or, at least, of registering and payment of luggage, the the cooling jars used in the country. transportation of which is not included in Charges exorbitant, — the same as in Hathe charge for your ticket. Your trunks vana, where rents are an ounce a week, are recorded in a book, and, having paid and upwards ; volantes difficult,— Mrs. L. a real apiece for them, you receive a pa- having made an agreement with the one per which entitles you to demand them livery-stable that they shall always be furagain at your journey's end. The Cuban nished at most unreasonable prices, of railways are good, but dear,—the charge which she, supposably, pockets half. On being ten cents a mile; whereas in our the other hand, the village is really cool, more favored land one goes for three healthy, and pretty ; there are pleascents, and has the chance of a collision ant drives over dreadful roads, if one and surgeon's services without any extra makes up one's mind to the volante, and payment. The cars have windows which delightful river-baths, shaded by roofs of are always open, and blinds which are palm-tree thatch. One of the best of always closed, or nearly so. The seats these is at the foot of Mrs. L.'s inclosure, and backs of seats are of cane, for cool- and its use is included in the privileges ness, — hardness being secured at the of the house. The water is nearly tepid, same time. One reaches San Antonio clear, and green, and the little fish float in an hour and a half, and finds a pleas- bither and thither in it,- though men of ant village, with a river running through active minds are sometimes reduced to it, several streets of good houses, several angle for them, with crooked pins, for more of bad ones, a cathedral, a cockpit, amusement. At the hour of one, daily, a volante, four soldiers on horseback, two the ladies of the house betake themselves on foot, a market, dogs, a bad smell, and to this refreshment; and there is laughlastly, the American Hotel, - a house ing, and splashing, and holding of hands, built in a hollow square, as usual,-- kept and simulation of all the Venuses that by a strong-minded woman from the ever were, from the crouching one of the States, whose Yankee thrift is unmistak- bath, to the triumphant Cytherea, springable, though she has been long absent ing for the first time from the wave. from the great centres of domestic econ- Such are the resources of the house.
Those of the neighborhood are various. Mrs. L-, always on the watch for Foremost among them is the cafetal, or arrivals, comes out to receive us. We coffee-plantation, of Don Juan Torres, disare very welcome, she hints, as far as we tant a league from the village, over which go; but why are there not more of us ? league of stone, sand, and rut you rumble The smallest favors should be thankfully in a rolante dragged by three horses. You received, but she hears that Havana is know that the volante cannot upset; nevfull of strangers, and she wonders, for her ertheless you experience some anxious part, why people will stay in that hot moments when it leans at an obtuse angle, place, and roast, and stew, and have the one wheel in air, one sticking in a hole, yellow fever, when she could make them the horses balking and kicking, and the so comfortable in San Antonio. This postilion swearing his best. But it is want of custom she continues, during our written, the volante shall not upset,-- and whole visit, to complain of. Would it be so it does not. Long before you see the uncharitable for us to aver that we found entrance to the plantation, you watch the other wants in her establishment which tall palms, planted in a line, that shield caused us more astonishment, and which its borders. An avenue of like growth leads you to the house, where barking says the Don, “ they eat it in the castors dogs announce you, and Don Juan, an instead of vinegar.” Then come sapotas, elderly gentleman in slippers and a Pana- mamey, Otaheite gooseberries. “Does she ma hat, his hair, face, and eyes all faded like bananas ?” he cuts a tree down with to one hue of grayness, comes out to ac- his own hand, and sends the bunch of cost us. Here, again, Hulia Protestante fruit to her volante;—“Sugar-cane?” he becomes the subject of a series of attacks, bestows a huge bundle of sticks for her in a new kind. Don Juan first exhausts leisurely rodentation ;- he fills her pocket his flower-garden upon her, and explains with coral beans for ber children. Havall that is new to her. Then she must ing, at last, exhausted every polite attensee his blind Chino, a sightless Samson of tion, and vainly offered gin, rum, and a Cooly, who is working resolutely in a coffee, as a parting demonstration, Hulia mill. “ Canta !” says the master, and the and her partner escape, bearing with poor slave gives tongue like a hound on them many strange flavors, and an agonthe scent. “ Baila !” and, a stick being izing headache, the combined result of handed him, he performs the gymnastics sun and acids. Really, if there exist anyof his country, a sort of war-dance with- where on earth a society for the promoout accompaniment. “ El can!” and, tion and encouragement of good manners, giving him a broom, they loose the dog up- it should send a diploma to Don Juan, on him. A curious tussle then ensues, admonishing him only to omit the vinthe dog attacking furiously, and the blind egar-fruit in his further walks of hospitalman, guided by his barking, defending ity. himself lustily. The Chino laughs, the We take the Sunday to visit the nearmaster laughs, but the visitor feels more est sugar-plantation, belonging to Don inclined to cry, having been bred in those Jacinto Gonzales. Sun, not shade, being Northern habits which respect infirmity. the desideratum in sugar-planting, there A real dismisses the poor soul with a are few trees or shrubs bordering the smile, and then begins the journey round sugar-fields, which resemble at a distance the cafetal. The coffee-blossom is just our own fields of Indian corn, the green in its perfection, and whole acres in sight of the leaves being lighter, and a pale are white with its flower, which nearly blue blossom appearing here and there. resembles that of the small white jasmine. The points of interest here are the maIts fragrance is said to be delicious after chinery, the negroes, and the work. Ena rain; but, the season being dry, it is tering the sugar-house, we find the mascarcely discernible. As shade is a great quinista (engineer) superintending some object in growing coffee, the grounds are repairs in the machinery, aided by anothlaid out in lines of fruit-trees, and these .er white man, a Cooly, and an imp of are the ministers of Hulia's tribulation; a black boy, who begged of all the parfor Don Juan, whether in kindness or in ty, and revenged himself with clever mischief, insists that she shall taste every impertinence on those who refused him. unknown fruit,--and as he cuts them and The maquinista was a fine-looking man, hands them to her, she is forced to obey. from the Pyrenees, very kind and obligFirst, a little negro shins up a cocoa-nut- ing. He told us that Don Jacinto was tree, and Aings down the nut, whose wa- very old, and came rarely to the planter she must drink. One cocoa-nut she tation. We asked him how the extreme endures,-two,- but three ? no, she must heat of his occupation suited him, and rebel, and cry out, “ No mi gusta!” Then for an answer be opened the bosom of she must try a bitter orange, then a sour his shirt, and showed us the marks of bitter one, then a sweet lemon, then a innumerable leeches. The machinery is huge fruit of triple verjuice flavor. “What not very complicated. It consists of a is it good for?” she asks, after a shudder- wheel and band, to throw the canes uning plunge into its acrid depths. “Oh,"der the powerful rollers which crush them, and these rollers, three in number, provision is made for their amusement, all moved by the steam-engine. The but the little girls nurse them tenderly juice flows into large copper caldrons, enough, and now and then the elders where it is boiled and skimmed. As they fling them a bit of orange or chaimito, were not at work, we did not see the ac- for which they scramble like so many tual process. Leaving the sugar-house, monkeys. Appeals are constantly made we went in pursuit of the mayoral, or to the pockets of visitors, by open hands overseer, who seemed to inhabit com- stretched out in all directions. To these fortable quarters, in a long, low house, “Nada”—“Nothing"—is the safe reply; shielded from the sun by a thick screen for, if you give to one, the others close of matting. We found him a powerful, about you with frantic gesticulation, and thick-set man, of surly and uncivil man- you have to break your way through them ners, girded with a sword, and further with some violence, which hurts your own armed with a pistol, a dagger, and a feelings more than it does theirs. On stout whip. He was much too important strict plantations this is not allowed; but a person to waste his words upon us, but Don Jacinto, like Lord Ashburton at signified that the major-domo would wait the time of the Maine treaty, is an old on us, which he presently did. We now man,-a very old man; and where disentered the negro quarter, a solid range cipline cannot be maintained, peace must of low buildings, formed around a hollow be secured on any terms. We visit next square, whose strong entrance is closed the sugar-house, where we find the deat nightfall, and its inmates kept in strict sired condiment in various stages of colconfinement till the morning hour of or and refinement. It is whitened with work comes round. Just within the door- clay, in large funnel-shaped vessels, open way we encountered the trader, who vis- at the bottom, to allow the molasses its the plantations every Sunday, to tempt to run off.
Above are hogsheads of the stray cash of the negroes by various coarse, dark sugar; below is a huge pit commodities, of which the chief seemed of fermenting molasses, in which rats and to be white bread, calicoes, muslins, and small negroes occasionally commit involbright cotton handkerchiefs. He told untary suicide, and from which rum is us that their usual weekly expenditure made.—N. B. Rum is not a wicked word amounted to about twenty-five dollars. in Cuba ; in Boston everybody is shocked Bargaining with him stood the negro- when it is named, and in Cuba nobody is driver, a tattooed African, armed with a shocked when it is drunk. whip. All within the court swarmed the And here endeth the description of our black bees of the hive, - the men with visit to the sugar-plantation of Don Jalittle clothing, the small children naked, cinto, and in good time, too,—for by this it the women decent. All had their lit had grown so hot, that we made a feeble tle charcoal fires, with pots boiling over rush for the volante, and lay back in it, them; the rooms within looked dismally panting for breath. Encountering a nedark, close, and dirty; there are no win- gress with a load of oranges on her head, dows, no air and light save through the we bought and ate the fruit with eagerever-open door. The beds are sometimes ness, though the oranges were bitter. partitioned off by a screen of dried palm- The jolting over three miles of stone and leaf, but I saw no better sleeping-privi- rut did not improve the condition of our lege than a board with a blanket or aching heads. Arriving at San Antonio, coverlet. From this we turned to the we thankfully went to bed for the rest of nursery, where all the children incapable the morning, and dreamed, only dreamed, of work are kept; the babies are quite that the saucy black boy in the boilingnaked, and sometimes very handsome in house had run after us, had lifted the curtheir way, black and shining, with bright tain of the volante, screeched a last imeyes and well-formed limbs. No great pertinence after us, and kissed his hand