Transferred to bowers imperishably green,
Had beautified Elysium! But these chains
Will soon be broken; - a rough course remains,
Rough as the past; where, Thou of placid mien,
Inocuous as the firstling of the flock,

And countenanced like a soft cerulean sky,
Shalt change thy temper, and with many a shock
Given and received in mutual jeopardy,

Dance, like a Bacchanal, from rock to rock,

Tossing her frantic thyrsus wide and high."

From Coniston the next move is generally to Ambleside (eight miles), portions of which road have already been spoken of. Ambleside is an ancient chartered town, and contains a population of upwards of 1,000. Its streets have a confused and irregular appearance, but, being built on an elevated ground, command good prospects of the adjoining country. The leading inns are the Salutation, Commercial, and White Lion, besides which there are others where travellers can be accommodated, as well as at a number of private houses specially fitted up for lake visiters. Boats of various kinds are kept by the proprietors of the different inns for the convenience of tourists. The vicinage in every direction is adorned by a number of pretty villas, and the various little walks in the neighbourhood abound with rich and enchanting scenery. A very interesting ceremony, called the Rush-bearing, takes place at Ambleside annually, on the eve of the last Sunday in July, being probably the relic of some ancient custom, which has now, with one or two exceptions, fallen into desuetude. On the day in question the girls of the town and neighbourhood, preceded by music, carry garlands of flowers to the church, where they are tastefully deposited until the following day, when a sermon is preached befitting the occasion. On a fine bright day, this exhibition has a very lively and picturesque appearance. A beautiful church has recently been erected by sub

scription, near to the town. It contains a fine stained glass window, and the edifice altogether, surmounted by a tall spire, produces a very happy effect on the landscape.

From Ambleside numerous excursions may be made in different directions, which for variety and interest are not to be excelled in the lake district. We will first speak of that through the Langdales by way of Skelwith Bridge; a road, however, it should be remembered, that is only passable for light conveyances. After passing through Clappersgate the tourist may either proceed on the right or left bank of the river Brathay to Skelwith Bridge (three miles), where there is a comfortable inn, and à little further up the river, Skelwith Force, a cascade of moderate height, but always having a plentiful supply of water, and encompassed by splendid scenery. A mile further there is a fine view of Elterwater, shortly after which the road passes through Colwith Bridge, and near to Colwith Force, another cascade with a fall of nearly seventy feet.. Instead of taking the road to Elterwater at this place it is usual to proceed by Little Langdale to Blea Tarn (five miles from Skelwith Bridge), situated in

"A little lowly vale

A lowly vale, and yet uplifted high
Among the mountains."

This place has been faithfully depicted by Wordsworth in his "Excursion,"

"A spot that lies

Among yon mountain fastnesses concealed,"

and is the abode of his " Solitary." Leaving this tarn to the left, the road shortly begins to descend steeply into Great Langdale, which, from this position is a beautiful object, and the Langdale Pikes present themselves in towering magnificence. These peculiarly-formed mountains are named Pike

of Stickle and Harrison Stickle, the latter being 2,400 feet above the level of the sea, and commanding some good prospects towards Rydal and the head of Windermere, while from the summit of its neighbour may be seen Bassenthwaite Lake, with Skiddaw and other hills in that direction. Between these two hills flows a stream, which at one place falls through a deep chasm a height of sixty feet, having over it a natural arch. This is called Dungeon Gill, and is the scene of Wordsworth's "Idle Shepherd Boys," where

"Into a chasm a mighty block

Hath fallen and made a bridge of rock,

The gulph is deep below,

And in a basin black and small,

Receives a lofty waterfall."

Returning down Great Langdale the road passes the extensive slate quarries at Thrang Crag, and shortly afterwards the chapel, where the lamented Owen Lloyd officiated for twelve years. In the chapel-yard there is an epitaph composed by Wordsworth to his memory. The distance from here to Ambleside is five miles. The road generally preferred branches from that to Loughrigg to the left at a short distance from the chapel, and in ascending the hill views of Langdale, Elterwater, Loughrigg Tarn, and a portion of Windermere are obtained. When the summit is gained, the vale of Grasmere, "Tranquil, and shut out

From all the strife that shakes a jarring world,"

is presented to the eye; but the road leaves the valley to the left, and passes Rydal Water on the same side, near to which it joins the turnpike, and a mile further brings you once more to Ambleside. The other road, which is the only one practicable for carriages, passes by the powder mills near to Elterwater, thence close to Loughrigg Tarn,

+

"From all unhallowed things

By grandeur guarded in its loveliness,"

and afterwards by the river Brathay and through Clappersgate, a distance about equal to the route mentioned above, but inferior in the extent and variety of its prospects.

The pedestrian desirous of taking an extensive view of the country may climb to the summit of Fairfield, nearly three thousand feet above the level of the sea, the way to which passes by Rydal Mount; or he may ascend Wansfell Pike,* which although only rising fifteen hundred feet above Windermere, possesses prospects equal to those of its more lofty neighbours. From its summit may be seen Windermere, Grasmere, and Rydal Lakes, the towns of Ambleside and Hawkshead, and at a greater distance portions of Morecambe Bay, and the towering hills of Langdale and Coniston. A delightful and still easier trip might be taken to Loughrigg Fell (one thousand feet above Windermere) by way of Clappersgate, a route which would amply repay the slight difficulties experienced in accomplishing it.

Those who love to linger among the relics of bygone ages, and roam in imagination

* Wordsworth has dedicated the following sonnet to this mountain :

"Wansfell! this Household has a favoured lot,

Living with liberty on thee to gaze,

To watch while morn first crowns thee with her rays,

Or when along thy breast serenely float

Evening's angelic clouds. Yet ne'er a note
Hath sounded (shame upon the Bard!) thy praise,
For all that thou, as if from heaven, hadst brought
Of glory lavished in our quiet days.

Bountiful Son of Earth! when we are gene
From every object dear to mortal sight,

As soon we shall be, may these words attest

How oft, to elevate our spirits, shone

Thy visionary majesties of light;

How in thy pensive glooms our hearts found rest."